View Full Version : Aluma-Tech CNC machining dNaNo Parts
arch2b
06-22-2009, 09:15 PM
Aluma-Tech CNC machining
Currently available at RealTracks (http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24171)
Aluma-Tech_Moons_Auto_Scale_Wheel
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1337/medium/Aluma-Tech_Moons_Auto_Scale_Wheel.JPG
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1337/medium/Aluma-Tech_Moons_Auto_Scale_Wheel_b.JPG
Aluma-Tech_Centerline_Auto_Scale_Wheel
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1337/medium/Aluma-Tech_Centerline_Auto_Scale_Wheel.JPG
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1337/medium/Aluma-Tech_Centerline_Auto_Scale_Wheel_b.JPG
Aluma-Tech_5_Spoke_with_bolts_Auto_Scale_Wheel
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1337/medium/Aluma-Tech_5_Spoke_with_bolts_Auto_Scale_Wheel.JPG
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1337/medium/Aluma-Tech_5_Spoke_with_bolts_Auto_Scale_Wheel_b.JPG
Aluma-Tech_5_Spoke_Oval_Auto_Scale_Wheel
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1337/medium/Aluma-Tech_5_Spoke_Oval_Auto_Scale_Wheel.JPG
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1337/medium/Aluma-Tech_5_Spoke_Oval_Auto_Scale_Wheel_b.JPG
Aluma-Tech_5_Spoke_Auto_Scale_Wheel
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1337/medium/Aluma-Tech_5_Spoke_Auto_Scale_Wheel.JPG
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1337/medium/Aluma-Tech_5_Spoke_Auto_Scale_Wheel_b.JPG
MrNanoTrax
06-23-2009, 03:17 AM
so.... basically i can't use these rims if the surface isn't ideal for the ASC tires? u gotta be selling tires for this. i'd order them but i want to actually be able to USE them on any surface. when are the tires coming out?
RealTracks
06-23-2009, 09:35 AM
so.... basically i can't use these rims if the surface isn't ideal for the ASC tires? u gotta be selling tires for this. i'd order them but i want to actually be able to USE them on any surface. when are the tires coming out?
These are the Autoscale tire collection of wheels. Standard direct replacement aluminum wheels will be available. They will obviously require no offset change and be compatible with all currently available dNaNo tires. I believe Mike also has wider wheels in the works that will accept wider standard style tires.
arch2b
06-23-2009, 07:57 PM
we need to petition pn racing to make thier line of tires in the autoscale size.
lornecherry
06-24-2009, 02:03 AM
As soon as I get a hold of a Hudy Tire Truer, I should be able to make foams for these that will work on all surfaces, and probably quite well on the Realtracks surface. If there's enough interest, I might be inclined to do it sooner, although I find the whole d'Nano "fitting parts" somewhat cumbersome for those of us who are used to the Mini-Z interchanging of parts between cars.
MrNanoTrax
06-24-2009, 11:28 AM
dNaNo is intentionally proprietory i think... its a collector's item MORE than it is an r/c model imo. but yeah, foams would be cool... how long do foams last running on rubber surfaces like the RCP tracks? thats the closest thing to our tracks surface i think
lornecherry
06-24-2009, 11:16 PM
Nano, there are many grades of foam, hard foam lasts a long time, soft can get chewed up in a month or so. That said, the d'nano may be harder on tires (because it can generate so much lateral g) or not hard at all (because the mass is so low) ... I just don't really know, but I doubt wear will be an issue for all but the most serious racer, especially on your foam track, which is easier on tires than carpet.
lornecherry
06-24-2009, 11:27 PM
just ordered two sets; Moons and Centreline -- anxious to see how the cars drive with a slightly heavier wheel (perhaps make it a little less skittish and add a touch of traction). They do look nice too.
arch2b
06-28-2009, 10:46 AM
quick reply... the wheels i received are of high quality. well worth the cost if you ask me. i have not had the opportunity to use them just yet. the detail is very fine, the lines are crisp and clean. the finish is very nice as well.
i don't have a very accurate scale to demonstrate the weight but they feel very light but i'm sure thats more to do with the miniscule scale.
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1331/medium/IMG_13361.JPG
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1331/medium/IMG_13351.JPG
MROSS 1
06-28-2009, 01:43 PM
As soon as I get a hold of a Hudy Tire Truer, I should be able to make foams for these that will work on all surfaces, and probably quite well on the Realtracks surface. If there's enough interest, I might be inclined to do it sooner, although I find the whole d'Nano "fitting parts" somewhat cumbersome for those of us who are used to the Mini-Z interchanging of parts between cars.
Loerncherry, Can you call: (805) 922-0881
or email me: mike_ross_558@hotmail.com
Like to talk about tires with you. Thanks in advance,
Mike
lornecherry
07-20-2009, 01:15 PM
...well, it appears the "Autoscale" tires are somewhat useless for real racing as the rubber is way too hard ... so I can't really test the two sets of Aluma-tech rims I have -- the ridge in the middle makes them difficult/impossible to make tires for, or to properly mount the stock tires. When I did mount and glue Atomic 20 degree tires, the rims worked quite well ... smooth and with a little more weight, making the cars less jittery -- you are trading some speed for better handling -- a good thing in the d'NaNo's case.
I looked on the both the web site and ebay, where the Aluma-Techs are advertised, and didn't see a 19R sized rear tire for the non-Autoscale tires (Moon or Centerline)?
The reason I'm after those particular sizes/shapes are two-fold.
1) 19R stock rear rims, when mounted on the front, give the best combination of handling/traction that I have tried. They also fully cover the kingpin (which you need to shorten with a Dremmel tool), helping slightly to keep impurities out of the hub. The 20R size requires too much body clearance up front; the 19R stock rims fit my Porsche perfectly in the front.
2) the Moon or Centerline Aluma-Tech's are "clsoed" in that they have no spokes, thereby also keeping stuff out of the hub.
So, would it be possible to get a set of 4-19Rs Moons and/or Centerlines that are the same width as the factory wheels? Also, it would be nice to source a silver wheel screw to match, as that would look much nicer than the black one that comes with the chassis.
I do like the look and quality feel of these wheels and the price seems decent for what they are. The testing I've done so far has been positive even though I'm quite hard on things and put the cars through a lot of handling "drills" on both carpet and foam. And I'm not afraid to say when something doesn't work well either (like the Autoscale). But using wider, rear tires up front is a proving to be a very useful handling mod and does not destroy the scale look too much as most of the width is hidden.
There are other mods to the front end that are helping slightly, and I will share those once I finish testing everything.
Marcro
07-28-2009, 04:04 PM
I've been in communication with the manufacturer of these wheels and he has theme available for stock tire use as well as scale use. He can even have theme anodized in colors if you wish. Here is my Murcielago with the AVM alloy's. http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/143MurceilagoDnano.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/143MurcielagoDnano2.jpg
I like the second set of rims you posted there arch. Those would look nice on the Porsche 911 GT3.
Marcro
07-28-2009, 04:05 PM
The rivets on those are a nice touch! :D
patrick38
08-14-2009, 01:53 PM
do the rims thake the new pn tires ?????
Jellis
09-19-2009, 06:41 PM
Well I got tired of waiting so I made myself a set of aluminium rear wheels and wow what a difference in handling.
They did exactly what I thought they would do... Make the car tight or under steer. I'm no engineer but my thoughts where that the plastic wheels as flimsy as they are where tucking under on the outside rear corner wich in turn reduced the contact patch of that tire.
With the aluminum wheels I was able to go with a softer compound in the front that I couldn't run with the plastic wheels in the rear the car would just spin out.
The car went from running 4.5's - 4.7's to running 4.2's to 4.4's A good .3 per lap the car was stuck like glue but a little twitchy I'll have to find maybe a little harder compound between the atomic 25's and 35's
More grip front and rear is a good thing right... LOL
Jellis
09-19-2009, 06:45 PM
by the way they are no where as pretty as the others I have seen on here mainly because I only have a manual mill and lathe but they do look cool
nitrojunkie
09-19-2009, 08:54 PM
Where are the pics are you gonna make some of us wait till Tuesday?
Kassi
10-01-2009, 06:14 PM
Any news about the alum wheels?
I'd like to get a set or two that I can actually race with :)
Marcro
10-13-2009, 10:18 PM
I have e-mailed them last week and suggested a particular style of wheels for the Ferrari F-40. They replied to me the other day saying they'll look into it. They appreciate suggestions and feedback. If there is a style you like, e-mail them with a picture and just ask. You might get it and you might not!
I'm very satisfied with the Countach wheels they made for me!
mleemor60
10-14-2009, 09:30 AM
by the way they are no where as pretty as the others I have seen on here mainly because I only have a manual mill and lathe but they do look cool
Remember Joe. I have a viable solution for the manual part. I would love to get my investment back. I bet that Pedro's wife would love to have it out of the garage too.
RealTracks
10-14-2009, 04:54 PM
Any news about the alum wheels?
I'd like to get a set or two that I can actually race with :)
We just updated the site with the current line up. Still waiting on 2 pics. All are in stock and avaible for purchase directly from Aluma-Tech through the RealTracks site.
Marcro
10-14-2009, 05:51 PM
The 17F's I got for the Countach are not drivable. I don't know if it's because they are missing the special peg, or if the inside of the rim is too close to the knuckle and something seems to be catching. Rear 18's are perfect. So, when driving the Countach, I have to swap back to the stock wheels.
Hopefully other 17's won't have same issue, although they told me that they were too small to mill out that peg.
I've suggested to them two more styles and hopefully we'll see more options coming soon! :D
arch2b
10-14-2009, 08:49 PM
should be simple to figure out. spin the wheel and look for where it catches.
Marcro
10-14-2009, 10:06 PM
Yea, I've looked at it and I think it's that the inner diameter is too tight and catches onto the hub/knuckle area. Still, I'm very satisfied with the wheels and looking forward to more options/styles! I have "0" complaints with them! The wheels on the Porsche work perfectly and the car almost feels smoother with them than the stocks.
arch2b
10-14-2009, 10:16 PM
thats good info. so the inner surface of the wheel is rubbing the hub causing the wheel to not spin freely, correct? if so, this is important to know as the wheel blank can have the inner surface milled out a fraction of a millimeter, enough to allow free spinning without compromising the wheel integrity. at this size, i wouldn't be to concerned about that.
are the aluminum hubs larger than the plastic ones? we already know from another member that the hole for the wheel lock is not as deep on the aluminum hub. this to can be fixed by cutting the nub short on all the wheels. it really only needs enough to grab hold and not slip.
RealTracks
10-15-2009, 04:54 PM
Thanks for the observations Marco, as you said, Aluma-Tech stated they were unsure if the rims were going to work for you before they shipped. A print will have to made of the stock 17 rim and testing done if the 17s are going to become part of the line. Obviously the nub on the rear of the rim is a tool clearance issue that will have to be addressed with a smaller dia. tool. If you can get a good Macro pic showing the interference it would be helpful. As far as modifying your rims to work, you may want to try chucking it up very, very lightly in a drill press or a hand drill clamped to a bench. For safety you must get the rpm down to around 60rpm. You can then evenly ease the inside corner of the rim where you suspect the interference is. As Arch said the aluminum is very easy to work with. A small jeweler’s file held stationary against the spinning rim should work fine. To help keep the lightly chucked rim from spinning you can put some double faced tape on the rim before its chucked. Be sure there is the same number of layers under each jaw. Also insert the rim flange up against the chuck jaws to prevent the rim from sliding inward when you apply pressure with the tool. And the final warning, be carful of how you place the file or tool. If you don’t have a good understanding of what you are doing you are likely to end up with a file stuck in the side of your face because you came in at the wrong angle, the tool grabbed and got launched at high speed. Again if you can’t get the speed down to around 60 rpm than it can be a dangerous proposition. Good luck if you try it.
Marcro
10-15-2009, 05:31 PM
I have no problems driving the car with the stock 17's up front. But when I put it on display, I like to put the alloy's on.
I'm not much of a machinist at all, so I doubt I'll want to attempt modifications. Knowing me I'd probably do more damage than good! So best to leave it alone and be happy with what I've got for the shelf.
Since the rear's are very drivable, it's no headache really to swap out the fronts for driving purposes.
It may also be possible that my specific design wouldn't except the milling of the small peg?
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