Turbo Prototype

[Steve]

Eeegaads! What is it you say? Well, it's a turbo! Ok, so the first try was a little rough around the edges, and little big, but beta 2 is much improved.

[Steve]

Ok, so here's the deal. It's a basic timer circuit that waits a certain amount of time then closes. Sooooo, pressing forward on the controller gives you 1.5 volts to your motor, and after the timer expired it dumps another 1.5 volts until you let off the throttle, then it resets.

The thought is that with a two cell mod, tight corners and precision driving is next to impossible, but with this thing, I'll be able to navigate the S turns and then have the boost kick in for the long straights.

The thing sticking out is the adjustable timer...you can set it to no delay, through something like 10 seconds.

I still have major work to do but I'm pretty excited. I'll keep you all posted, I have a feeling I'll need a little help from you guys that have taken an electronics class or two.

[Steve]

another angle

[d00kie]

HOLYword filtered!!!

Keep us up to date on your project.

Good Luck too! :D

[Steve]

on a little side note....does anyone know how to make voltage bleed off slowly....so letting off the throttle isn't instant? I'd like to have the ability to slow down slowly after letting off the throttle, or the option of hitting reverse which would esentially be a hard brake.

I was thinking a capacitor of some sort, but something tells me it won't be that simple.

Ideas welcome.

[Gruder]

An RC cir. Resistor and a cap. The equation to determine how fast you want the cap to charg and discharge is determined by the following eq.

Vc(t) = V(@infintiy) = [V(@time timer is turned on or off) - V(@infinity)]e -t/T

V = Voltage
e = natural log
-t/T = exponet of natural log
-t = time it takes cap to charge or discharge
T = R/C
R = Resistor value
C = Cap value

Hope this is not to confusing.

Gruder

[PT Bruiser]

This is the coolest mod idea!! Darn that would be sweet - an "afterburner" type thing. That would be a good thing to have. I put in a 3 volt duracel battery just for kicks, and it was darn fast, but I too wondered how the heck one would control that kind of speed. I did nothing but doughnuts on my kitchen floor with 3 volts! Your mod im sure would take some time to get used to a new way of driving, but darn worth it! DO keep us informed!! I gots lots of space in the Cruiser body for extra stuff!! (why everyone is such a PT hater is beyond me!!!) I greatly thinned out the body shell, and its quick now!

[MTL]

whoa....lucklily ZZs are large...
heh id cut the sunroof off the body to make it fit...

hmmm about that driving..im guessing youll have to do alot of tapping....and dont gas it on the turns but use the momentum of the speed to make it around bends

[Steve]

Originally posted by Gruder
An RC cir. Resistor and a cap. The equation to determine how fast you want the cap to charg and discharge is determined by the following eq.

Vc(t) = V(@infintiy) = [V(@time timer is turned on or off) - V(@infinity)]e -t/T

V = Voltage
e = natural log
-t/T = exponet of natural log
-t = time it takes cap to charge or discharge
T = R/C
R = Resistor value
C = Cap value

Hope this is not to confusing.

Gruder

LOL...ummm......2.2 JIGGAWATS!!!! Thanks Gruder. You wouldn't by chance wanna build it and then send the schematics? I'd give you some of the credit..."the Steve-Gruder Variable Turbo Module With Decay ...for only $9.95, and if you act now, you'll also get the Miracle Steak Knife that cuts lexan with ease."

[Steve]

Originally posted by MTL
whoa....lucklily ZZs are large...
heh id cut the sunroof off the body to make it fit..

Hehe, I'm thinking I can make it quite a bit smaller...worst case scenario, I'll add some chrome, build to resemble an overgrown Hemi, and just punch it through the hood!

[BLAKE]

Wow man! That is too cool :D

Engineering is waaay beyond me, but I'm glad it works for someone.

[Mattydiah]

*Sigh* Its times like this I wish I paid more attention in my HS electronics class.

[Cyslyde]

SWEET! defenitly let us know on how everything is going, I would also like to see a digram if your not intending to sell this turbo kit that is

[Steve]

yes Virginia, those are goose bumps! It's starting to come together and it looks like it might just work. I re-built it tonight and crammed it all into an even smaller package. I tried to keep it long and narrow so I can put a cowling around it. I'm told there are smaller resistors that one can buy, but I haven't a clue where. If someone knows post it.

Nope, no plans to sell it, this is just for fun. The schematic I used is online at this place (http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/projects/timer.htm) (no affiliation). It's a basic 555 timer circuit. I used a 100k variable resistor instead of their 1M (less delay), and connected a motor instead of their beeper. I left out the LED's and toggle switch, and I plan to run it on 3v instead of 9. For size purposes, I got rid of the board and just started soldering things as close together as possible.

[Steve]

more

[ICH_BIN_GUT!]

looks as if there is a giant booster rocket atached to da chasis of the Zip.

[lnx_author]

OK... details please:

- is this a modded zz?

- where did you get the wheels?

- how much?

:-)

[lookatme]

if remember corectly they are tires from a f1 slt car or somthing i think

[Gruder]

Sorry Steve I am an electrical enginear and I was just giving you the math equation to design the charg and discharg characteristics of a simple RC circit.

:confused:


Gruder

[Steve]

Originally posted by lnx_author
OK... details please:

- is this a modded zz?

- where did you get the wheels?

- how much?

:-)

It's a Zip with AFX GForce Slot car axel, wheels, and tires (had to drill a little as the rear axel was bigger, and ground clearance is next to nothing). The AFX kit was $6.00 which came with the rear axel and tires. The front are AFX and they were $2.00 for the wheels and tires. The body is from www.scaleauto.com , which by the way has everything slot car. The big arse thing on the back is my homemade turbo module that adds second battery voltage after an adjustable delay. I bought everything I needed to make it from the Shack for under $10.00...and things like resistors came in 3-5 packs so if you fry one when soldering no biggie. So far I've got about an extra $20.00 and countless hours into this silly thing, but the fun makes it worth it.

[Steve]

Originally posted by Gruder
Sorry Steve I am an electrical enginear and I was just giving you the math equation to design the charg and discharg characteristics of a simple RC circit.

:confused:


Gruder

hehe thanks, I got the theory behind it, and my boss actually took it from there, though I got to thinking and once the turbo kicks in, simply pulsing the throttle SHOULD reset the timer circuit and drop the voltage back down to 1 battery..kind of a down shift. I'll have to get it running to see if a decay circuit is really needed, and if one could actually fit.

[Steve]

Originally posted by ICH_BIN_GUT!
looks as if there is a giant booster rocket atached to da chasis of the Zip.

LOL...thats next!

[tinyrc]

Amazing work Steve; we've promoted this thread to Bit Science!

[Steve]

Ok, after coming so far...I've hit a stumbling block! Unless I'm wrong, I need a relay to switch between one cell and two cell operation. The timer in the turbo module trips the relay, that sends the second battery voltage in series to motor. Releasing the throttle, resets the timer, which causes the relay to fall back to one cell.

HERES THE PROBLEM. The only relay small enough that I could find is 5v. I found that 3volts will actually trip it, but even with two cells, once the voltage drops a little from running, the relay won't work anymore. What I need is either a relay that runs on less than 3v (can't find them), or some kind of other method that I can't figure out.

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

[DeeChan]

i don't know if this is the right realy but i found this (http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=500&item=LRLY-154&type=store)

[Steve]

Originally posted by DeeChan
i don't know if this is the right realy but i found this (http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=500&item=LRLY-154&type=store)

That's pretty close, unfortunatley at 1 1/3 inches long, it's almost longer than the chasis of the Zip. Though, I guess beggars can't be choosers.


Thanks

[Steve]

http://www.electronic-kits-and-projects.com/3044.htm

this guy has this kit that you can build, that comes with a 12V relay, but when 1v is applied it triggers....how did he do it!!??

[BackInBlack]

So, where do you put the 'Flux Capacitor'...? :D

Nice work! I invent electronic mods and add-ons for real cars, so it's different to see people adding to postage-stamp sized vehicles! Keep up the good work! -Brian

[BackInBlack]

Originally posted by Steve
http://www.electronic-kits-and-projects.com/3044.htm

this guy has this kit that you can build, that comes with a 12V relay, but when 1v is applied it triggers....how did he do it!!??

Oh, to answer yoyr question: The relay coil is still energized by 12vdc, he is passing current through the collector-emitter junction of the transistor. A generic NPN transistor will pass enough current to pull in a 'standard' 12vdc relay coil when the base-emitter junction voltage is around .850vdc. It's a very simple schematic:

[JaMeZzZ122]

dam....nice idea and nice work...too hard for me to even think about:D...u control when u hit the turbo rite?...u also need a BOV(blow off valve ) for that ZZ now:D :D :D

[TheFanMan]

that's freakin amazing :eek: see if you can get some vid of that sucker running

[Steve]

Originally posted by JaMeZzZ122
dam....nice idea and nice work...too hard for me to even think about:D...u control when u hit the turbo rite?...u also need a BOV(blow off valve ) for that ZZ now:D :D :D


Actually the turbo boost would me timed, and kick in automatically after a certain delay. Adjustable of course, for the track.

[Short1mgb]

i read on page 2 you were looking for a 2v relay i dont know if you have tried searching yahoo but this is what i came up with
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=2v+mini+relay
i know you need a mini relay but im not sure how big these are if you still need help i know a few people that might be able think of something.

[Steve]

Originally posted by Short1mgb
i read on page 2 you were looking for a 2v relay i dont know if you have tried searching yahoo but this is what i came up with
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=2v+mini+relay
i know you need a mini relay but im not sure how big these are if you still need help i know a few people that might be able think of something.

Thanks for looking. The Zip Turbo Module is currently on hold as I found a Wal-Mart clone that has a two speed PCB. The board is twice as big as a Zip's, but it's flat, and would probably fit. However, this Wal-Mart clone is very powerful and just as fast as a dual cell Zip. It looked a lot like a Bit with it's short wheel base, so I stretched the chassis a 1/4 inch and WOW, handling is suddenly beautiful. I'm currently working on the controller to allow easier shifting between normal and turbo speeds. The only downfall of the Wal-Mart clone is that changing parts, other than tires and suspension, isn't really that easy, but at $13 I bought a couple to experiment with, and I'm still under the cost of a Bit.

[actofgod]

nice work Steve.

This mod sounds like what I was planning to do w/ the bit-charg multi-controller+chassis and a 2.4v mod. My thinking was that the multicontroller's turbo option (from my understanding it operates at full voltage or roughly half voltage, selectably) would make a 2.4v mod drive like a regular 1.2v bit, then when I hit turbo it would run at top speed. So I could use a 2.6 motor and have good cornering, then it'd run like a 5.2 motor (if there was such a thing) in the straightaways.

Your idea gets more points for creativity tho. :)

[NorCalCoug]

I was thinking of hopping up some kind of 'turbo' setup with a booster bit; having the 'boost' function on the controller trigger a series of small capacitors to dump more voltage to the motor, that have been charged up.. Hmm.. :)

[Steve]

Originally posted by NorCalCoug
I was thinking of hopping up some kind of 'turbo' setup with a booster bit; having the 'boost' function on the controller trigger a series of small capacitors to dump more voltage to the motor, that have been charged up.. Hmm.. :)

I think it would work, but you'd need a relay of some sort, and finding one small enough to fit in the chassis is one thing, finding one that will trip with about 1.2 volts is another.

[NorCalCoug]

That depends on how the boost function works. :) If I can find out what it's tripping on the circuit board I can wire the 'boost' directly in line with that. :)

[RebellionInc]

:D
Hello, this might Not concern anyone but i was wondering if you smart guys could make it seam like the cars is shifting... like the 2 speed PCB instead make it like a 5 or 6 speed!!!! can you do that??? anyways i jus thought that that would be like a very Kick ass idea!

(1st)
Baaaaahhhhhhhhhm
(double clutch to 2nd)
Baaaaaaaahhhhhhmmm
(to third) "v-tech kickin' in"
Baaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhmmm
(4th)
Baaaahhhhhhhmmmmmm
(5th) "SEEE yah"
Baaaaahhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmm

[NorCalCoug]

You'd have to build a gear box and I don't think there's enough room for that. Also, you shouldn't double-clutch when you're racing it's a waste of time. And it's VTEC not v-tech. ;) v-tech makes taillight covers for cars. ;)

[Steve]

Originally posted by NorCalCoug
... And it's VTEC not v-tech. ;) v-tech makes taillight covers for cars. ;)

I think V-tech makes phones too!

[Kingofjapan]

hey guys. i didn't want to buy a booster kit b/c it would cost a lot. so decided undergo brain storming. what i came up with is a two motor bit! if have come across that crazy japanese site with the two motor mod. i will mount the motor the same way, but the diff is that one motor will be a 1.0 and the other one will be a 3.0. after careful examination, and much soldering just hooking up the negative lead and the postive leads just doesn't do it. there wasn't enough power to kick the motor in play.

So leaving the contacts in place I am planing to get some semiconductors that let only the voltage go thru one way. this was i can have the two motors connect to the F and B contacts but only one motor would be active at the same time. so when i push forward it would give a 1.0 torquy take off and then pushing the back button would give me a good take off.

sorta like VTEC, low and high end power. I can't wait. Also the guy that hosts the Japanese site e-mailed me with a possible escape route for semiconductors, by removing the follow FET's it would improve voltage he says. What do you think?

[Kingofjapan]

hey again, in all that explaining i forgot to tell you guys that it would remove the backwards function. PLUS!! if i do get a booster i essentally would have a 4 speed bit!! holy crap, it's going to be awesome.

[RebellionInc]

could someone post pic's of what you guyz talkin about it sounds real intresting... i'm kind of new so please forgive me!:eek:
i really wanna see what that 2 motor 2 speed mod looks like:)

[Kingofjapan]

i know it's kinda ghetto but it works.
i have a 1.0 motor hook up and a 2.2 hooked up both independant from each other...my previous post had the PETs that you had to take out to make this possibly. beware, this will destroy your ability to go backwards but it's kinda fun 'boosting' corners. It's cheaper but it's a real big mess if you don' tknow what you are doing..

send me an e-mail if you want more info

atomiccerealbox@hotmail.com

[tinyrc]

Kingofjapan, when the faster motor is activated, does the slower motor still have power? It seems like it would act like a brake against the faster engine?

[Kingofjapan]

orginally i was going to use a 1.6 and 3.0 combination for motors, but i had onlya 1.0 and a 2.2. the 1.0 runs a bit slower because it's dragging the 2.2 along, BUT it's fun. it's like having VTEC, the 1.0 motor is doing fine, but if it burns out, i have plenty of those. so it's not that bad. the 2.2 is a reliable motor so i can depend on it running. neither motor works at it's full potential but what can you expect out of something so revolutionary. The FET mods arereally easy to do. just grab the blank things with some pliers adn twist..tada. they're off.

[Kingofjapan]

the reason that the FETs are removed is so that they run indenpedanly of each other, not at the same time. otherwise the 1.0 motor would be burnt out b/c it's being pushed over it's limit of 10000 RPM's. the 2.2 won't run at 22000 RPMS though, it has to drag the 1.0 motor's friction. oh well..

[Steve]

this might be a bit of a stretch, but what about a really flexible motor mount...and when power is applied, the torque of the motor causes it's flexible mount to shift into position and mesh with the transfer gear? Just tossing ideas out.

[Steve]

How about a micro solanoid? Do they make really little ones? When power hits the motor, it triggers the solanoid as well and the piston in the solanoid pushes the motor into position?

Also, you could link the other end of the piston so that it disengages the other motor?

[Steve]

HOLY MOLY! What if you used the electro-magnetic steering concept to engage / disengage the motors?

[Kingofjapan]

the solinoid produces so much electromagentic interference i don't even know if the motor would work. But it's worth a try, if you can give me a schematic of what you are talking about. I'll try it, anything once. BTW, I've switch to a 2.2 motor and a 2.6. there is noticeable differnce in preformance as teh 2.2 motor has lots of torque. I want to get a 1.6 motor because rumour has it that it runs the new bit lar-g's and they have insane torque. even the zip zap motors would be great.....

[GT-ahh]

i did the dual speed mod mention on that japanese site, and its mad. apart from the fact you cant go backwards, you gain the fuctionallity of a booster and a greater top speed. Id recomend basic electronic knoledge before attempting this mod, because somethings are not explained well enough...so if anyone has trouble understanding the translation i can probably help you out just let me know which section you don't understand...

Kingofjapan, as for the dual motor mod with a 1.0 and a 3.0, it doesnt seem feasible, a sleeper dual battery mod with a dual-speed conversion and a 2.2 would be much easier as there are no intricate moving parts and you could add a resistor to drop the speed down to a 1.0 equivalent, the price is an important factor to0, all ive spent is the price of an extra battery, and a 2c resistor.

also removing the 2 FETs does increase the voltage and it also reduces current lost as when you do the dual-speed mod the FETs are no longer used.

[Kingofjapan]

hehehe...it's nice to know that some one is still out there. Yeah i know that the two speed deal on the japanese website can be done. I just did my mod to show the youngen's what a bit charg can do. I've been playing with these things for a really really really long time. I just wanted to try something new. besides i like way gears turn, the more gears the better, It's fun! C'mon lego technic guru's unite!

thanks for the reply and can you show me how to do the two speed mod? I've been looking at the site for months and nothing. Some choaching would be great. I have a chassis already, but i need come gears that's all. thanks

[RebellionInc]

i did the dual speed mod mention on that japanese site, and its mad. apart from the fact you cant go backwards, you gain the fuctionallity of a booster and a greater top speed. Id recomend basic electronic knoledge before attempting this mod, because somethings are not explained well enough...so if anyone has trouble understanding the translation i can probably help you out just let me know which section you don't understand...

wassup man! i need your help! Pleaseee, if your not too busy could you walk me through or give me a english diagram of how to do that 2 motor mod. i would be so appreciative of some of your knowledge on this. it seem that you understand alot in this mod! i was also wondering if i can do a dual battery mod with this 2 motor mod? thanx....

[GT-ahh]

um my mod isn't the dual motor mod, its a dual-speed mod, which works by rewiring reverse so it makes the bit go forward, then by putting a resistor on the original fowards to make it go at a limited speed, then when you press the reverse button it "boosts" up to full speed....
I was just comparing it to the dual motor mod and showing how feasible it really is.
My bit is a dual cell sleeper, and it flys. If i get time during the week i can email you a rough translatation and additional notes on the DUAL-SPEED modification, but im very busy fixing my real car so i may not be able to till later in the week.

[RebellionInc]

Ok man i'll wait... sound very intresting! by the way whats a My bit is a dual cell sleeper, ? i really appreciate all your help, thanx....

Esco

[GT-ahh]

dual cell sleeper means that both batteries are mounted inside the chassis, for a lower center of gravity...

[dumbnewbie]

Deleted this message it posted in the wrong thread

[seizurebot[rdf]]

it works good

[megazord[rdf]]

dont go above 8t or the fluxcapasiter will turn on and send yo IN TO THE FUTOR! NOOOOOOOOOOO

*gives two thumbs up* KEKEKEKEKEKEKE ^^

[GoOsEmAn]

WOW...that is nice...good luck with the project...

[DavidDeLaurier]

Alright, Can the three of you who are making "turbos" (boost, dual motor, reverse boost) please post diagrams and parts needed so that people like me can do this mod. Maybe you should submit your mod to QFM and have them make a step-by-step guid for each mod. They would probally do it if you won't.

These are some really great ideas yall are putting out. Keep up the work and never stop modding!

[GT-ahh]

ok. Ive been REALLY busy recently but you'll be happy to hear that ive been working on my dual speed text and it will be finished within the next couple of days. (depending how much i drink this weekend :p ) ill post a link as soon as its finished....

[dustn]

I think you all are missing an option. Instead of modding the car, mod the controller. Theres a little programmable chip called the basic stamp, made by parallax (I think thats how its spelled) You can upload a basic program into the chip to make it do a number of things... Anyway, using a potentiometer for throttle, you could have the basic stamp pulse the throttle output on the controller at a given frequency, varying the length of the "on" pulses inversely with the "off" pulses, aka, pulse width modulation. That would give a truly proportional throttle, that would be pretty smooth depending on the pulse frequency, and the car could remain stock. You could, of course, double the voltage for more gusto... This might also work for steering, but i'm not sure.
For kingofjapan, can you send me some pics of your hovercraft? i'd like to see how you did yours. I am working on one too, in fact, the reason i got my clone... but its so much darn fun, i havent torn it down yet. Mainly i'm curious what you used as a prop or fan. I have made larger R/C craft using propellers but theres nothing i have found small enough for the little microb motors. I suppose it might have to be geared....
Thanks.
Email: Dustn1@yahoo.com

[ib311]

I'm excited to see how the Turbo mod turns out kids! :D

[dxhatchback]

well in my experiences with cars and speed bursts, this little mod u are doin wouldnt be a turbo. it would be called Nitrous Oxide. Turbos are always adding power to the motor, and Nitrous is only on when u push the button... so in theory, this is NOS. Yes a turbo kicks in as soon as it spools up, but not to the effect of this little boost you have made.

Travis

[Steve]

Originally posted by dxhatchback
well in my experiences with cars and speed bursts, this little mod u are doin wouldnt be a turbo. it would be called Nitrous Oxide. Turbos are always adding power to the motor, and Nitrous is only on when u push the button... so in theory, this is NOS. Yes a turbo kicks in as soon as it spools up, but not to the effect of this little boost you have made.

Travis

Actually, I don't think turbo's "always" add power. They are usually designed to add boost under hard accelleration...so it still could be a turbo mod. It could be nitrous. It could be a blower. It could be a T/C circuit attached to a 555 timer...

[BiG_pHiL]

its too bad you can't get tomy to revise their cars to include features such as this, they'd probably charge a lot of money for a mod like that tho :P

[xatu]

Steve, could you post some more pics of your mod thingy? I want to build one, and I don't know what I need, how to make it, how to use it, etc. I need everything you have to help me build one!

Thanx!

[tjmon]

Yeah, Steve what xatu said. I'd like to see some pics and plans of your turbo mod.

[tjmon]

Yeah, Steve what xatu said. I'd like to see some pics and plans of your turbo mod.

[xatu]

I would do ANYTHING to make my car go faster! Even if it means....*gulp*....doing electronic stuff! :eek:

[ZipZap "SS"]

Was reading through this thread, and had kind of an interesting thought.

I used to work on generators for a living, and railroads have always been kind of a hobby of mine. One of the neat things about the diesel electric locomotive, versus steam is a little electrical twist that the diesels had in their favor.

When a diesel electric locomotive is starting from a stop, the locomotive drops the voltage off the generator, and increases the amperage going to the traction motors. The higher amperage gives more torque to start the train moving. As time passes, and the train accelerates, the voltage starts to rise, and amperage starts to drop, for optimal high speed running. The steam engines had trouble at the low end of things, but could run well at higher speeds.

Anyways, after reading about the "turbo" mod with dual batteries, I started to think about a mod to the idea. Instead of just bringing in the second battery to increase voltage, why not use it in parallel when starting, and switch to series for the "boost?"

Steve, did you have any luck with your original mod? This is one that I may try in that great someday, based a lot on the luck that you've had.

Thanks to you all for a great thread that's given me a lot to think about tonight!

Cheers!

Chris

[DensityMan]

Still missing lots of data, links and text here... I have recently started taking the plunge here with mods (after a successful controller re-fit/re-build/mod) and am REALLY interested in all of the mods (three or more so far) in this thread...

Come back to the light and post up some info and pics... :D

[gabriel silver]

Hey folks, I just figured out an option to simply switch the turbo on and off...

Mike's Mods ( http://www.cflowers.freeserve.co.uk/mike_mods.htm ) has the "Ultimate Light Mod" in which he uses some IC to switch on the front light when you double-tap the forward button... would be cool to get this working with the turbo.. It IS possible, but as long as Im not a pro in electronics I don't exactly know HOW..

Anybody any hints ?

[tinyrc]

Very cool gabriel silver! Anyone got any ideas on how this is accomplished?

[m0nkeyCharG]

Hey Steve and all others that tried this mod/project!
I know i'm a bit late in reading this thread but as I read all 6 pages, I got really interested.
I just wanted to clarify one thing. Was the idea of this mod to simulate the 'lag' that real turbos had? [aka turbo lag]

[Steve]

Originally posted by m0nkeyCharG
Hey Steve and all others that tried this mod/project!
I know i'm a bit late in reading this thread but as I read all 6 pages, I got really interested.
I just wanted to clarify one thing. Was the idea of this mod to simulate the 'lag' that real turbos had? [aka turbo lag]

The plan was not to simulate lag, but to simulate a gear shift, without actually having to shift. I wanted less power in tight turns, and then lots of power when exiting and for straights. Some clones have a dual speed pcb so the mod is a little obsolete now, just swap pcb's with that clone. I did come up with a solution to my problem, and used a transistor instead of a relay, but again, simply putting a dual speed pcb in acomplished the same goal with more control. I'd ultimately like to come up with something so that the power outputs at each speed could be adjusted, but I've been too busy to play lately, and the availability of cheap dual speed clones has been scarce.

[m0nkeyCharG]

ok...hmm...so basically u were looking for something similar to the Tomy booster kit, but not as pricey. Am i correct?

[Steve]

Originally posted by m0nkeyCharG
ok...hmm...so basically u were looking for something similar to the Tomy booster kit, but not as pricey. Am i correct?

I thought the booster kit added a second motor? I just wanted two speeds.

[m0nkeyCharG]

Originally posted by Steve
I thought the booster kit added a second motor? I just wanted two speeds.

No, the booster kit uses 1 motor. the special controller has a 'boost' button. basically when the 'boost' button is pressed, the bits run at the the motor's max speed. when the boost button is released, the car runs at a reduced speed [some say 1/2, some say 3/4].

[batesjm]

do what i did, buy the booster set. The car goes about 1/2 speed untill the button is presses. i was thinking of modding a single speed car but then i remembered that time is money. by the way, I really like the idea of using the 2 cells in paralell then switch to series. that would be great.

[mrcdemon]

this seems pretty cool... dunno bout giving up the reverse option though...

[Swavey]

is there anywhere to read more about that ultimate lighting kit or whatever, i would be vcery interesting in using it, but the signal lights, and some other features would annoy me, i just wanna be able to turn driving lights on and off by tapping the switch. That would rule, no more having to turn off the mini switch every time you wanna save battery life, heh.

im new at all this, so i apologize if this is an annoying question or anything

[Sparky]

Steve,
I have read all of this post with interest and I am thinking of taking up where you left off with the turbo mod. I know that a booster pcb will give you the boost function but i like the sound of it kicking in automatically, just like a turbo.

I was wondering how much current you could draw through the output of the 555 chip. In your earlier prototypes did you have the chip output direct to the motor? Did this or will this work?

[Steve]

What I left off with was actually a working model, but because the relay I used to switch from one bat power to two bat power wouldn't trip with 1.3 volts going to it, it wouldn't work, especially after the bats ran down a little. And yes, the output to the motor came directly off the chip and through the relay. These little motors don't draw enough current to worry about. My thinking was that instead of a relay, one could use a transistor, which requires very little power to switch. In other words, the timer circuit would allow 1.3 volts to pass, and then it triggers the transistor, which switches and allows 2.6volts to pass.

An easier method might be to place the timer in the controller of a dual speed clone so that it switches between normal and turbo modes automatically....you could even build in a manual overide. Working with the controller would keep the weight off the car, and you'd have so mouch more room and voltrage to work with.




Originally posted by Sparky
Steve,
I have read all of this post with interest and I am thinking of taking up where you left off with the turbo mod. I know that a booster pcb will give you the boost function but i like the sound of it kicking in automatically, just like a turbo.

I was wondering how much current you could draw through the output of the 555 chip. In your earlier prototypes did you have the chip output direct to the motor? Did this or will this work?

[Sparky]

Steve,

What i intend to do is forget about switching from 1 to 2 cells and have the car running from 2 cells all the time. I would then use 2 feeds from the pcb to the motor. One feed that had a resistance in it for the off boost speed and the other feed with the timer circuit in.

When you hit forward the timer would start timing but the only way current could get to the motor would be through the other resisted circuit, giving you reduced speed. When the timer expires that output would go high and allow full power to the motor.

This design would negate the need for any relays or transistors and would also mean both cells would run down at the same rate.

Off boost speed and lag time could be made adjustable by using pots for the resistors. Set the timer interval very short and it could be like a sort of traction control!

What do you think? Could it work?

Sparky.

[Steve]

Yes, it would work, though seems to me with that setup, running on low speed would waste battery life through the resistor...or doesn't a resistor work that way? In other words, I'm thinking the extra voltage from the two cells would bleed off through heat in the resistor, essentially using as much battery as no resistor, but you'd only get half the speed. Me thinks running at half speed would be inefficient. But yeah...I think it would work. Kind of exciting.







Originally posted by Sparky
Steve,

What i intend to do is forget about switching from 1 to 2 cells and have the car running from 2 cells all the time. I would then use 2 feeds from the pcb to the motor. One feed that had a resistance in it for the off boost speed and the other feed with the timer circuit in.

When you hit forward the timer would start timing but the only way current could get to the motor would be through the other resisted circuit, giving you reduced speed. When the timer expires that output would go high and allow full power to the motor.

This design would negate the need for any relays or transistors and would also mean both cells would run down at the same rate.

Off boost speed and lag time could be made adjustable by using pots for the resistors. Set the timer interval very short and it could be like a sort of traction control!

What do you think? Could it work?

Sparky.

[HaCkZy]

I have a question and possible new angle on the turbo idea. Is it possible to have the reverse act as the turbo activation. I.E. Pressing forward will push 1.2 V and pressing the backward button would still go forward but that would be the trigger for the second battery. In a sense, from Steve's idea make reverse trigger the switch rather than a timer circuit. Reverse is such a small price to pay....

[Steve]

Originally posted by HaCkZy
I have a question and possible new angle on the turbo idea. Is it possible to have the reverse act as the turbo activation. I.E. Pressing forward will push 1.2 V and pressing the backward button would still go forward but that would be the trigger for the second battery. In a sense, from Steve's idea make reverse trigger the switch rather than a timer circuit. Reverse is such a small price to pay....

The problem I had was that I used two series wired circuits. One included one battery, the other included two. The relay was needed to switch between one or the other. Reverse, or a timer, or whatever, could trigger the relay, but again, you'd need a really small relay that would trip with only 1.2 volts (I couldn't find one). I don't know enough about electrical circuits to find a work around, so I just used a 2 speed clone PCB and controller.

[BenCloned]

You could use a booster pcb, or a RX2C chip from a booster board, with the turbo function triggering the second cell. Maybe.

[mini rc man]

good idea

[Fastandfurious]

Kingof Japan,

k now for sure im gonna do the dual motor mod

you know how to do it SO TELL ME
GIVE UP UR SECRETS lol

j/k

where do you hook the two motors up to
PICS they help me a lot

THX

[GT-ahh]

pressing reverse to activate turbo has already been done..its called the dual speed mod, ive explained it in the past and on my webpage..except it only works efficiently if you have a dual cell bit...

[ph2t]

I was thinking of using a mecury switch as the trigger for the timer circuit. So when you went forward the mecury would short the switch and the timer would kick in. After about 2-3 secs the booster voltage would kick in.

cool!


ph2t.

[jpaustin]

I was wondering if anyone has found out if anyone found out from Mike's Mods ( http://www.cflowers.freeserve.co.uk/mike_mods.htm ) how the circuit is setup up to increase the speed by double clicking foward button.

[senario]

nakamichi racers come with turbo speed built in already...

[teamoutburst]

Originally posted by jpaustin
I was wondering if anyone has found out if anyone found out from Mike's Mods ( http://www.cflowers.freeserve.co.uk/mike_mods.htm ) how the circuit is setup up to increase the speed by double clicking foward button.

It only turns on/off the lights, it doesnt make it go faster!

[GT Racer]

WHAT THE ****!?! Thats gonna be a screamer for sure good luck buddy!:D

[froogazzi]

ive been to LHS, and i seen for the mini-Z racers. they have a turbo aftermarket thingymabobber, to add on to the car. n of course makes it faster. i was wonderin could u add that to a ZZ or a MS? or would it burn out the pcb? cuz all this talk about a turbo n me not bein able to work with circuits. so i was just curious. i dont kno what its called. but if anyone knows what im talkin bout. plz let me kno.

BEFORE
http://www.theenchantedaffair.com/froogazzi/flat.jpg

AFTER
http://www.theenchantedaffair.com/froogazzi/lowlow.jpg

and its even lower
:bdrop:

[MicroSpeed]

Today is the 1-year aniversary of this thread

[mizu]

i have a rc that when u push up the thumb stick it has a boost and the controler came like that in a zigzag form kinda and it had a tourbo sticker on it and then when u let it come back dwon to norm. it gradualy slowed down as u let off of the thumb stick but i dont think that would help that much that i told ya but it could help hopefully but i didnt take it appart but ill ask my dad cause im not good with stuff as smart as what your talking about but im going to try to take pics of the chassy so u can see it but im not sure cause i see my dad that much but the rc is called the evader it black and looks sporty but when i turn on the turbo it fast as heck and i havent been beaten cause i use that also cause its light weight

[IceSkyLine]

Something about stick n boost ?

Isnt that the Microsizer pro ? with a fast engine ? Didnt get a single word.

[mizu]

no its not a microsizer pro cause its way bigger than a microsizer