Micro-T 12vDC Charger Mod.

[DarthRacer]

I've modded my Micro-T charger to accept 12vDC input. I can select between 12vDC and battery power with a switch.

If you like you can follow the build and changes I make to it here:
http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/showthread.php?t=458


http://home.adelphia.net/~darthracer/images/MicroT/Micro-T-ChgMod-Part1-6.jpg

[RCdabbler]

Thats nice.

I have to decide what I'm going to do with my second charger base but it looks like it will get a mod like that.
I also have a new DC charger that I'd like to be able to run off of an AC power supply so I'm thinking of finding and modding one of my old computer power supplies to use for that.
Thinking of just gutting out an old comp and making a charging station.

[arch2b]

the pus power supply is a mod i did a long time ago;) it's practically free considering all pc's have one and you can scavenge any retired pc. it's very easy to rig an on/off switch and find the right wires with a wiring diagram for the psu and onverall, it works great!

it just so happens that i am modifying my pit box to include an internally mounted psu;) http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23352

when i get my micro-t i plan on using a peak charger but i will certainly look to doing this mod as well just for the sake of making the base charger more of an optional choice.

i hate aa base chargers, epochs have the same thing and it was the first thing to go but now i'm looking ibnto seeing if doing the same thing for that would work

[Keono]

I took the charger apart, removed the circuitry, and placed it into another case. I took a 10 cell (2 5-cell receiver packs) 12V pack and attached a clip to the charger. It "works" in the sense that the light lights up, and the battery recieves a "charge" but for some reason, probably the mAH rating of the packs, the micro-T battery gets like a 10 second charge on it.

the left picture is the charger, I pilfered the case from a texas instruments data cable for thier calculators, and you can see the reciever pack next to it. I'm not sure why it works/doesn't work the way it does, maybe someone can tell me?

Maybe I should make it like darth's and just make it a 12v DC charger....

[arch2b]

i am very glad to see this thread here although it's not nearly a full as it's precessor on r7r.

i've used the info posted by darthracer (thank you soo much) to post threads for similar mods for both the epoch and Lit base charger as well. it's bascially the exact same process so no need to really go over the details

[DarthRacer]

I can post the whole mod here too!! :D Sorry arch2b



** Warning - Doing ANY modifications to your charger will void the warranty. **

Parts List:
1 - micromini DPDT switch - RS part # 275-626
1 - DC power jack / size M - RS part # 274-1582
1 - DC power plug / size M - RS part # 274-1569

http://home.adelphia.net/~darthracer/images/MicroT/Micro-T-ChgMod-Parts.jpg



Step 1 - Take out the 4 screws and open the charger. The small PCB is the simple peack charging circuit.

http://home.adelphia.net/~darthracer/images/MicroT/Micro-T-ChgMod-Part1-1.jpg



Step 2 - Locate a spot on the top part of the case for the switch that does not interfere with the battery case or PCB. Drill your hole and mount the switch.

http://home.adelphia.net/~darthracer/images/MicroT/Micro-T-ChgMod-Part1-2.jpg



Step 3 - Find a spot on the top part of the case for the 12vDC input jack that does not interfere with the PCB. Drill your hole and mount it.

http://home.adelphia.net/~darthracer/images/MicroT/Micro-T-ChgMod-Part1-3.jpg


View from inside the case after the switch and jack are mounted.

http://home.adelphia.net/~darthracer/images/MicroT/Micro-T-ChgMod-Part1-4.jpg



Step 4 - Wire up the switch and jack. I'm using a tip positive setup on the DC jack. The switch simply selects between the positive connections from the battery compartment and the 12vDC source. I soldered one side of the switch to the tip of the DC jack. I soldered the center switch connection to the positive input on the PCB. I soldered the other side of the switch to the positive side of the battery compartment. The negative or ground connection from the DC jack was soldered to the negative side of the battery compartment to create a common ground location.
The second throw of the switch will be used for the LED to come later.

http://home.adelphia.net/~darthracer/images/MicroT/Micro-T-ChgMod-Part1-5.jpg



Step 5 - Test to make sure you have not created any short circuits and re-assemble the case and test. You are now ready to use 12vDC input.

http://home.adelphia.net/~darthracer/images/MicroT/Micro-T-ChgMod-Part1-6.jpg

[Namuna]

Great tut DarthRacer!

I'm going to move this thread over to the Micro-T Parts and Hop-Ups Forum so we can keep all the great mods/tips/tuts and such for the Micro-T in one place.

[grepfrue]

hi,

i just did this mod. my question: is it normal, that the red led is active (battery is attached of course), when the switcher is in position for dc and there's no 12vDC source connected? does that mean it charges from the batteries?
thanks for you help!

regards,
daniel

[grepfrue]

no one who can help?

[OOde]

One way to avoid the switch is to use the third pin on the dc input. It is a contact that gounds out when no plug in in the jack (thus allowing battery power) or is open when plugged into the power supply. One question I had was what is the minimum required amperage of the power supply??? Anyone expiriment?

I'm guessing 1 Amp would be way overkill, but how low can you go..

.02