HowTo-SB magnet mod: No pinion removal !!!

[Exaran]

Needed:
One Xmods motor to be modified
One spinbrush motor
Small screwdrivers
Tweezers
Maybe a soldering iron

My motor tech vocabulary is poor, so bear with me...

1-Get your 2 motors

Do steps 2-6 to each motor

2-Pry the tabs on the motors up that hold the endcaps on

3-Insert a screwdriver in the tiny gap between the end cap and the little plastic piece inbetween the connectors, and pry. This allows you to remove the end cap while leaving the wires and brushes in place

4-Pivot the brushes out of the motor being careful not to bend or twist them too much (you may need to pop off one of the solder points on the can)

5-Use the tweezers and pull out the "U" clip on the top of the motor that holds the magnets in place.

6-Use the tweezers to pull the magnets from the can. Set them aside so you know what side of which motor they came from.

Steps 7- do only to the Xmods motor

7-Put the SB magnets into the Xmods can. Put the LEFT SB magnet into the LEFT side of the Xmods can and vice versa. In other words the same sides they came from (Or else your motor will run backwards, like mine did at first :rolleyes: ) [EDIT: I have corrected this step]

8-Put the "U" clip back into the motor. Push it totally into the can, but so that there is a little of the clip left right in front of the magnets for you to grab in case you need to change magnets again.

9-piviot the brushes back into the motor, carefully, again.

10-pop the endcap back on, and bend the little tabs back down to hold the cap in place

11-Try spinning the pinion, it should turn freely. You will feel a small "grabbing" force as you turn from the stronger magnets.

12-Solder the connection back to the can, if you had to break it in step 4. Remember to rough up the can a little with sandpaper or a file to make the solder stick better.

13-dispose of the extra spinbrush parts or save for experimentation

14-install the motor in the car, insert fresh batteries, and play!

[RC 2NR]

Thanks...this is a good idea, because when I tried to take the pinion of my drag motor with the flame method, I destroyed it.

I tried it and it works great.

Any moderator: I think this should go into XMods>XMod Science

[Bad Company]

I will move this over for now pending further test results from this mod.

Exaran: Where in Richmond are you? There are a couple members here looking to get together for weekly racing/modding.

[RC 2NR]

I would recommend putting a little general purpose oil in the can and running it with a battery for a few minutes until most of the oil comes out. This makes it run faster and cooler.

[Exaran]

Glad you like my idea :cool:

I'm in east richmond, near the airport. That would be awesome to get together and race. I've spent about 20 hours modding and 1 hour driving cause I have nowhere to drive in my house :rolleyes:

I sent you an email with my contact info

[Nathan]

Wow. Never thought of that. Good work- I don't think there is a pinion puller within 200 miles of the Alamo:) . This will save me much time.

[RC 2NR]

Originally posted by Nathan
Wow. Never thought of that. Good work- I don't think there is a pinion puller within 200 miles of the Alamo:) . This will save me much time.

I haven't heard of anybody being able to get one of the pinions off without breaking their pinion puller.

[nobodyhere962]

does it matter wat brand the spinbrush is(crest)
and how do u get the motor out

sry im a bit dense and new at this

[RC 2NR]

Originally posted by nobodyhere962
does it matter wat brand the spinbrush is(crest)
and how do u get the motor out

sry im a bit dense and new at this

Yes, it has to be a Crest Spinbrush.

To get the motor out:
1. Pull the battery cover off
2. Take off or cut off the rubber gasket
3. Pull the toothbrush apart
4. Remove the 4 screws that hold the motor in

[nobodyhere962]

thanx

[neurokinetik]

Originally posted by RC 2NR
I haven't heard of anybody being able to get one of the pinions off without breaking their pinion puller.

My puller is still functional even after several pinion removals. I have to flatten the thin metal plate by putting it into a vise when I'm done, along with using Vise-Grips to hold it in place when I'm using it, but it does hold up, for the most part.

[SuPrBuGmAn]

http://www.atomicmods.com/hosted/XMODS%20021.jpg

I ordered one last night, supposedly it holds up quite nicely. Do a search on GWS Pinion Puller for several online stores that carry them.

[sinistar]

I have done this successfuly but sometimes I have had trouble getting the solder to stick to the can. I tried sandpaper, my taper file, even a small hole pattern. And Have not been able to get the solder to stick. Is there something one of you know that I don't? Does it matter if the can gets hot before puting the solder on the can or do you just put the solder on like you would just anything? I really have been wondering about this because I have a puller but I'm in a fix as just as to how to get the solder to stay on the can. Right now I'm just taking some narrow RS electrical tape and banding the lose solder connections to the can. But this really is bothersome with pending heatsink developments and other motor related engin-e-rings. Please somebody tell me what might be going on.

[neurokinetik]

Originally posted by sinistar
I have done this successfuly but sometimes I have had trouble getting the solder to stick to the can. I tried sandpaper, my taper file, even a small hole pattern. And Have not been able to get the solder to stick. Is there something one of you know that I don't? Does it matter if the can gets hot before puting the solder on the can or do you just put the solder on like you would just anything?

It takes a good soldering iron, and a little patience. I just heat the can where I want the cap soldered, and put a blob of solder there. I then tin the lead of the cap. Then I heat the blob up, and put the tinned wire into it while it is melted. Let it cool, and you are sorted.

[IBAUCLAPla]

HELPP!!!!!!!!! I get up to the part where you remove the Uclip. I don't see a Uclip anywhere. I did steps 1-4 perfect on my Xmod stagge one motor. I cant get the magnets out. Please help

[Exaran]

Look on the "top" side of the motor (The side with the lable). You are looking at the top of the "U" so you should just see the ends of the clip sticking out past the magnets. I know I'm not saying it well, but I dont have a motor apart right now to take pics. :(

It's basically between the two magnets against the top of the can.

[spitty12]

This works great, I did it to a stage 2 motor with 5th cell and 8 tooth and the car absolutely flies. Throttle modulation is key though, most find my car almost undrivable because it will just spin unless you are light on the trigger.

What pinion pullers are you guys using? I broke a $13 one on the first pull.

I use a needle to get the U pin out to the point where I can grab it with pliers.

[Bash_N_Thrash]

I tried this mod on a Stage 1 white motor (stocker). I reversed the magnets as per the directions but after installing everthing had the motor spinning backward problems. So I took it all apart and swaped them left for right and it worked correctly. I must say this setup has lots of low end and could probably climb a steep grade, but top speed is terrible. Also I noticed that with the motor connected to the cars electrical and in my had that it had a higher top speed in reverse than in forward. Do the magnets have any effect on that? I will be taking the magnets out and installing them in a stage 2 red to see how that works.

[RC 2NR]

Originally posted by Bash_N_Thrash
I tried this mod on a Stage 1 white motor (stocker). I reversed the magnets as per the directions but after installing everthing had the motor spinning backward problems. So I took it all apart and swaped them left for right and it worked correctly. I must say this setup has lots of low end and could probably climb a steep grade, but top speed is terrible. Also I noticed that with the motor connected to the cars electrical and in my had that it had a higher top speed in reverse than in forward. Do the magnets have any effect on that? I will be taking the magnets out and installing them in a stage 2 red to see how that works.

You could try advancing the timing (http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15954) to get a higher top speed in foreward.

[Bash_N_Thrash]

Ya I am going to give that a try as soon as I swap out everything. I think the combo I will try next is PN racing BB can with Stage 2 armature with advanced timing, SBP magnets, and either the Stage 2 end bell or the BB can (I havent compared the brushes yet). I will say that even though I have bean disappointed in my efforts so far, at least I'm having fun. :D

[Exaran]

I just did my yellow motor tonight and I paid better attention to things...

----DO NOT REVERSE THE MAGNETS LIKE I SAID BEFORE---

Just put the magnets in the side they came from, and everything should work fine.

I also took pics of the whole thing, just gotta get em up here

[RC 2NR]

Originally posted by Exaran
I just did my yellow motor tonight and I paid better attention to things...

----DO NOT REVERSE THE MAGNETS LIKE I SAID BEFORE---

Just put the magnets in the side they came from, and everything should work fine.

Yeah, I noticed that too.

[Exaran]

Heres pics!!!! :D

First, the brush!

[Exaran]

prying up the tabs on the can

[Exaran]

seperating the brushes from the endcap

[Exaran]

the motor with the cap off

[Exaran]

the brushes pulled back. The ends of the "U" clip are circled in red

[Exaran]

pulling out the "U" clip

[Exaran]

Pulling out the magnets

[Exaran]

Magnets ready to be swapped

[Exaran]

Putting the endcap back on

[Exaran]

TADA!

[TeaQue]

i just completed this mod and WOW! :cool:

[gti]

Double Wow!!! Just completed the Stage 2 11T Blue Hybrid.........The most fun I have even had indoor:D

[Racer9]

When you remove the XMODS pinion heat the brass gear over a lighter until it is hot to the touch. It will expand faster than the steel armature shaft and will be easy to remove. I know from experience.

One question:

If you are worried about breaking a pinion puller why not pry them off carefully with a flathead screwdriver?

I do it all the time and it works wonders with no damage. Just make sure to use a hefty one or it may damge the screwdriver.

[neurokinetik]

Originally posted by Racer9
If you are worried about breaking a pinion puller why not pry them off carefully with a flathead screwdriver?

I do it all the time and it works wonders with no damage. Just make sure to use a hefty one or it may damge the screwdriver.

Well, when you do it that way, you push one of the internal spacers into the motor windings, which can at best cause the motor shaft to shift end-to-end, and worst case short out the windings themselves.

[Racer9]

I have never had any such problems and have done it a few bajillion times!

[charliebrown]

Quick tip on easy pinion pulling, without any pullers:

You'll need an old, STRONG, STURDY, metal butter knife...Cut a small groove in it, big enough to fit around the arm that the pinion is stuck on....just big enough for the arm to slip though, but make sure the pinion won't slip through it if you push hard on it.

Now, lay the ends of the knife on books stacked up high next to each other, or something like that for support...take your Xmods motor and fit the pinion above the groove, and make sure the leg which holds the pinion fits in nicely, but can move downwithout force (if the pinion wasn't on there holding it to the butter knife) the groove should be resting in between the pinion and the motor can. Take a hammer, and come down hard on the metal nub that sticks out of the pinion...this should move the armature leg out of the pinion a little, and loosen the pinion from the arm. Take a screwdriver and push the leg all the way out of the pinion...presto!

I can't describe it in words enough, but hopefully you get the idea....

[eternaldragon]

i tried the mode with a sb-highbred it was the red drag motor but i removed the magnates from that motor and put them in the blue top speed motor and now the motor has no torque at all i have to bump the pinion just to get the motor to go and if you touch the pinion when the motor is going it will just stop but if i plug the motor in to 2 aaa battery's directly it well start up fine but run at a low rpm and only run for about 6 min's and the battery's get really hot and i was just wondering if any one had any idea of what's wrong with it.

edit
i just didnt want to make a new post just for this.
i changed motor cans to a new blue top speed and now it works grate.

[edizzle]

umm

do u use the same steps for putting inneo magnets? i plan on buying some. wat is the difference between neos and spinbrush




i also think its kinda funny u use a tothbrush for the magnets lol!

[micro kid]

if you have a hard time getting a grip on the U clip slip a small screw driver between the small space between the clip and magnet and the can. push it down till it sticks then get a set of small pliers or some good tweezers ( i used the pliers on my swiss army knife.) and you can grab it. if you cant get a grip on the magnets tap the open side of the motor and they should move enough to grab.