View Full Version : 180motor in XMOD
izanuff
12-09-2003, 04:46 PM
nice little fit. pic is a little blurry though.
ViperKid
12-09-2003, 04:47 PM
is that the same size as a micro rs4 motor?
izanuff
12-09-2003, 04:51 PM
I beleieve so but dont quote me.
I just come up with outrageously retarted ideas because I know nothing of r/c's and my friend figures out a way to make it work. This is a pic of my friends supra. my xmod is just a rewound stage2 at 30turns with 6cell modThe 180 out of a tamtech completely smokes mine. He has also put a small sheet of aluminum to keep down flew and it still made the AWD slip up front. So ATM this car is only RWD. We have yet to find a set of tires hook up enough to drive it well. The foams slipped horribly and so do the stock slicks. Next mod is a model body and treaded tires. NOTE* this 180 only runs on 4 duracell AAA NiMH batts!!
neurokinetik
12-09-2003, 06:52 PM
Tamtech, huh? Interesting... :cool:
Funny you should mention that, as I spent most of last night researching alternate motor sizes. A FC-260 can would just barely fit with custom motor mounts, but has about 4x the torque of the 130 motor...
180 motor is a pretty easy fit, however. Exactly the same dimensions except the length, whuch is no problem if you are running one of the long wheelbase cars. It probably wouldn't fit in an RSX.
Hmmmm....
neurokinetik
12-12-2003, 04:29 PM
Originally posted by ViperKid
is that the same size as a micro rs4 motor?
Yes. But the more hardcore Micro RS4 motors go to a larger (round) type. I'm going to try one of the high speed modified 180 motors in my car and see how it works.
HPIracer
12-12-2003, 06:42 PM
Decided to try and put the motor from my micro rs4 in it. As soon as i get a pinion puller i can try it out :)
sherifx
12-12-2003, 09:00 PM
I'd love to use I micro rs4 motor such as this: http://graphics.hobbypeople.net/gallery/255065.jpg
but there is no way to tie the rear down.
sherif
neurokinetik
12-12-2003, 09:11 PM
Well, I popped in the Team Orion stock motor from the Micro RS4 in mine, but of course, I couldn't leave well enough alone. ;) I removed 10 turns per pole on it. I used the 11 tooth pinion and blue gear, set it down, and the car accelerated like a rocket.
Backwards. http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokinetik/doh.gif
Anyway, Seeing how this car moves, I am convinced that the 130 motor is lame, and will not be devoting any more time to it. On to bigger and better things. :D Even with the tallest gearing (and I have taller gears on order, hope they work) the car still accelerates like my tweaked stage 2 drag motor, which left a few jaws open at the track when I ran it, and even better than my hottest 130 mod motor to date (stage 2 reduced to 44 turns, Neo magnets, timing advance, BB can) :cool:
OK Draconious, we need Neos for 180 cans now... :p
*EDIT*
Got this thing hooked up correctly this time, and took it for a spin around my living room and kitchen. This is crazy. It far surpasses anything else I've tried in an XMod. I was doing AWD axis spins out in the kitchen, and in the living room, the cat is having a much harder time jumping out of the way. :lol:
HPIracer
12-12-2003, 09:47 PM
Wow i really want to try this stock motor out now. PLus theres some dynamite mod motors at my LHS that i can try out :) I just need a pinion.
neurokinetik
12-12-2003, 09:51 PM
Originally posted by HPIracer
Wow i really want to try this stock motor out now. PLus theres some dynamite mod motors at my LHS that i can try out :) I just need a pinion.
I've got a GPM high speed modified on order, along with a couple of larger pinions. :cool:
TypeZer0
12-15-2003, 01:08 PM
what motor is in that top picture? it's a black can but i can't make out the writing on the label
xxspeednplayaxx
12-15-2003, 02:40 PM
so do u have 2 fabricate a motor mount fer d rs4 motor 2 fit... also wut r d specs on d motors like revs and such, finally by accelerating hard 2 u mean spin tires
btw how much r they and how do they compare to the Nml stage 10
miniDRIFTER
12-15-2003, 05:01 PM
"MICRO MODIFIED MOTOR" thats what it looks like..
FastRSX
12-15-2003, 05:04 PM
neurokinetik where did you find larger pinion gears with the right pitch?
TypeZer0
12-15-2003, 08:31 PM
Originally posted by miniDRIFTER
"MICRO MODIFIED MOTOR" thats what it looks like..
know any details about it like #turns or who makes it?
sherifx
12-15-2003, 11:18 PM
Neuro - I have a few concerns about these motors... the stock winds, the torque, the current draw, the ability to move around in the rear,... how do you address these? (not you personally but in general ;))
If you think that the stock fets can't handle it, I may have to PM you with a proposition :p.
sherif
stl2ner
12-16-2003, 03:31 AM
i was wondering some of the same things, especially whether the stock electronics can handle the power usage from one of those motors as well as how to mount it.
xxspeednplayaxx
12-16-2003, 07:09 AM
ok... wuts d specs on the motor??? and how hard is it 2 install and of corse whats the $$$
neurokinetik
12-16-2003, 09:09 AM
Originally posted by sherifx
Neuro - I have a few concerns about these motors... the stock winds, the torque, the current draw, the ability to move around in the rear,... how do you address these? (not you personally but in general ;))
If you think that the stock fets can't handle it, I may have to PM you with a proposition :p.
sherif
Well, I tested the current draw on the Team Orion stock motor that I am running (mine has been reduced by 10 turns) and it pulls 0.64A, which isn't much more than a stage 2, and is considerably less than the hotter 130 motors are pulling. As for mounting, there are holes in the front of the motor to screw into. Holes could be drilled in the motor mount to securely fasten the motor in the front. The rear is held pretty tightly against the steering servo.
As for power, well, I can do axis spins (AWD donuts) in the kitchen with this setup. I won't know how it compares to NML stage 10 until I run somebody who has one.
Cost of the motor was $13.99 locally. I don't have specs on the motor, especially since I modded it myself. Suffice it to say that by sound, it's a little faster than a stock stage 2, but the torque output is in another league. Even my motor with Draconious's Neo magnets is weak compared to this one. Install was easy, just remove the rear mount. It will only fit in long wheelbase cars, however. (All but the RSX)
I found pinions at www.hobbyetc.com, but I won't know if they actually work until tonight when they arrive, along with the 30000 RPM 180 motor that I also ordered.
97PrizmLsi
12-16-2003, 05:47 PM
I'm contemplating swapping the motor out of my weedwacker into my civic.
HPIracer
12-16-2003, 06:46 PM
Originally posted by 97PrizmLsi
I'm contemplating swapping the motor out of my weedwacker into my civic.
In a real civic it would be a power increase
:p
97PrizmLsi
12-16-2003, 10:50 PM
LOL, no doubt
Skyline
12-17-2003, 01:58 AM
hey izanuff, do you listen to 311? the "you can't fade me" in your sig leads me to believe so...just a question.
TypeZer0
12-17-2003, 07:19 AM
neuro, any luck with the pinion and motor that you bought?
neurokinetik
12-17-2003, 11:35 AM
Those pinions won't work.
Actually, I should clarify, they could work, but not that well. The pitch is closer than others that I have tried, but it still is not exact. The actual gear size is still different. The 10 tooth I bought is about the same size as a 9 tooth XMods gear, and the 13 tooth is about the same size as the 11 tooth XMods gear.
The other problem is that you have to mount the gear with the set screw farthest from the motor. If the motor shaft is too short (a problem on spin brush motors and the 180 motors) the set screw will barely cath the end of the shaft and the pinion will wobble.
They might work on a standard XMods motor, but due to the size, you won't get the full benefit of the higher ratio.
As for the motor, it hasn't been installed in the car yet. It runs very quietly and smoothly, as it has a balanced armature. I do suspect that it is timed to run in the oppposite direction, though, as it sounds better in reverse. :mad: Right now, it does not spin as fast as a stock stage 2, even though it is supposed to be a 30k motor. (That is at 7.2V, however) The Team Orion motor that I tweaked will be faster than this one stock.
Wednesday nights are my nights to test and tune at the roller rink, so I'll have more to report later on tonight or tomorrow.
theMonster
12-17-2003, 12:59 PM
Yeah, let me know what works, b/c I can't wait to go down to the LHS and get a MRS4 motor and drop in there! Anything that will disrespect the Mini-Zs...heh heh heh.....
TypeZer0
12-17-2003, 01:36 PM
when you do your testing tonite, can you check how well those pinions mesh with the xmod gear that turns teh rear diff? size may be off but maybe there's a chance it'll still mesh well enough to use on a regular basis.
Mr BigShot
12-18-2003, 07:33 PM
So will those Big Round RS4 motor's in an Xmod ? or do i have to get the ones with the same shape as an Xmod motor ?
HPIracer
12-18-2003, 07:42 PM
Originally posted by Mr BigShot
So will those Big Round RS4 motor's in an Xmod ? or do i have to get the ones with the same shape as an Xmod motor ?
....same shape. Thats pretty much the Stock HPI motor and the Stock Team orion motor and dynamite makes a mod motor that the stock shape.
neurokinetik
12-18-2003, 08:48 PM
The current choices seem to be the following:
Team Orion Elite stock motor for Micro RS4.
GPM high speed modified motor
GPM high torque modified motor
Dynamite Mini Mod Motor
HPI Micro RS4 stock motor
The GPM high speed is decent, but not as fast as it could be. The Team Orion is pretty slow (in top speed) stock, but take off 10 turns per pole and it becomes pretty formidable (same or better top speed as stage 2 but incredible acceleration). I could probably take off another 5 turns or more and still have more than enough torque. The others I have not tried, but I thought that the Dynamite was listed as a 45 turn motor, while the GPM high speed is a 35 turn motor.
Other than the rare leftover Tamtech motors, I can't find or think of any others.
sherifx
12-18-2003, 09:53 PM
How is the HPI stock motor neuro?
sherif
TypeZer0
12-18-2003, 10:48 PM
any of those you listed work without any type of FET upgrade?
neurokinetik
12-18-2003, 11:19 PM
I'm running the Team Orion motor with 10 less turns on my car without the FET upgrade. It only draws slightly more current than a stock stage 2 (640mA vs. 580mA). I ran it all night last night, two sets of batteries, no issues.
The GPM motor only draws as much current as a stage 1 motor. It is VERY safe for the stock FETs. (240mA)
Out of that whole list, I don't think any are unsafe on the stock FETs. Not sure about the Tamtech motor, if you can actually find one. The best part is that none of those motors is more than $13.
sherifx
12-19-2003, 03:35 AM
I was cleaning out my toiletries drawer earlier today and found a Colgate Actibrush (spelling?) and it has a 180 motor in it. Soo... I smashed it and am going to try it tomorrow when I wake up. Hopefully its decent but I'll report back... This could be the new SpinBrush!
This is the style I had:
http://www.colgate-pressenews.de/actineu/actibr.gif
sherif
sherifx
12-19-2003, 04:24 AM
so I wired it up in reverse like the xmod motors are just for preliminary tests... This thing has sick torque just like the spinbrushs' do stock... but low low rpms... sooo I probably won't even bother trying to pop a pinion on here right away, I'll probably pull it apart & rewind it to 47 turns of 30 gauge. I'm betting this thing has high winds of a high # gauge wire. I'll post my findings tomorrow.
sherif
neurokinetik
12-19-2003, 08:41 AM
Put less than 47 winds on it... start with about 35 or even less. Remember that one turn on a 180 motor is a much larger amount of wire than a turn on a 130 motor.
sherifx
12-19-2003, 01:08 PM
Well just a small update... this thing is a pain to get apart... I haven't even opened it yet b/c it uses 4 small tabs to hold the top on and they're impossible to get loose. They're not as long as the 130 cans' so it's hard to a good grip on them. I'll probably just to go the hobby store today and pick one or two that fits my desires ;) maybe they'll have armatures but I'm doubtful.
Neuro, thanks for the reminder man, I can't believe I almost forgot that :D
sherif
neurokinetik
12-19-2003, 01:58 PM
They are tough to open. I gave up on the tabs, filed them off, then soldered the endbell back on when I was done.
Parts for the 180 motors are even harder to find than the 130. That's a drawback.
neurokinetik
12-20-2003, 12:18 AM
Here's a really cheap 180 motor. Good candidate for rewinding and experimentation. :cool:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFNJ9&P=7
TypeZer0
12-20-2003, 10:54 AM
that endbell isn't removable so it would be kinda tough to experiment with it
neurokinetik
12-20-2003, 01:45 PM
Well, the Team Orion had a supposedly non-removable endbell too... ;)
All you do is file off the four little tabs with a small hobby file (Testors sells the perfect set for this), then bang the motor shaft on the work bench, and the endbell will pop right out (180s are closed on the end, unlike the 130 motors). When putting it back together, the tough thing is getting the endbell back in straight. Just make sure the motor stays rotating freely, and all will be well. Then just solder the endbell back on where the four tabs used to be, and you are sorted...
danny_v_l
12-20-2003, 06:03 PM
are ther any tutiorals on motor winding?
neurokinetik
12-21-2003, 01:32 AM
Do a search on "winding" in the XMods forums here on TinyRC. It has been covered, I just don't have the thread(s) handy.
TypeZer0
12-23-2003, 01:40 PM
the colgate motion electric toothbrush has a ff-180 motor by mabuchi but i think the endbell is completely sealed, didn't look like there were tabs to file off. i saw it on the *other* forum, someone named guysmily took one apart.
backtrack9
12-23-2003, 03:27 PM
Ok, just to let everyone know I have done a quick test on the Colgate Actibrush 180 motor. I purchased one and then quickly disassembled it to take out the motor. To my surprise it was a Mabuchi FF180PH/SH. This means that the material that the brushes are made from are not the same as what is found in something like the Stage 2 motors. After filing off the tabs and removing the endbell I got a good look at the brushes. They are only simple thin silver strips. This is concerning because they will be eaten away quickly after much use under higher voltages and higher speeds. Using this as a long-term motor is not a wise idea. At any rate it is still a good test motor. I removed the comm and set the timing for 10° advance in the appropriate direction (CW looking from the driveshaft end). I followed Neuro's winding instructions for a 180 motor and put only 35 turns of 30ga. wire on each pole. After reassembly I put 3V to the thing and it ran like a top. The no-load current draw was only 0.28A. The torque was not that impressive. I compared it to my Stage 2 -10T advanced timing motor (0.58A no-load current draw) and found that the Stage 2 felt like it had more torque. I still have not put either of these motors in my car yet so these are only my benchtop-testing reactions to these motors. I think I know one reason why the 180 motor felt different - the winding method. This variation does create the same electromagnetic events to happen in each pole as a 130 motor, yet the duration of these events are changed due to the length of time the brush is in contact with the comm at certain points in the cycle. I believe the only reason for the odd winding pattern is so that the company did not have to produce custom parts for the 180 motor. The winding method allows them to use similar components to the 130 and still have a functioning motor with the brushes oriented 90° from normal. To test this theory I am going to get another motor and set the comm in an orientation that matches a 130 (rotated 90° + advancement) and then wind each pole like a 130. This might keep the duration of the powerful portion of the cycle "ON" longer to create more torque. I will update everyone when I get a chance.
TypeZer0
12-23-2003, 04:46 PM
the colgate motion has the FF-180SH, no PH suffix. i'll pick one up soon and try to take the endbell off because looking at his pics, i don't think there's any tabs to file off, it's probably soldered on
neurokinetik
12-23-2003, 04:51 PM
Those brushes are unfortunately going to make that option a non-starter, because there isn't a good set of brushes available unless you buy one of the more expensive motors.
For experimenting, it looks like either the Team Orion at $11, or the Duratrax at $9.
BTW, the Team Orion motor is a FK-180SH. The Mabuchi sticker is hidden under the Team Orion label.
Also note, that in testing, my 30 turn (26 Gauge) 180 motor is not as torquey as even the 35 turn GPM motor. Top end is decent, but I think maybe dropping down to 28Ga wire might be a better choice, though my torque will suffer even more. I think I am going to rewind my Team Orion again, and see if that is indeed the better combo.
If the GPM had neutral timing, I'd say it would be a no-brainer for the 180 motor of choice, as it is epoxy balanced, whisper quiet, smooth, and fast. But since the timing is retarded, it is not running optimally. For a 7.2V setup, though, it is still a performance bargain at $13.
Shane_882002
12-24-2003, 04:38 AM
hey how do you move the things in back of the micro Rs4 motor to fit in your xmod????? please help:confused:
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neurokinetik
12-24-2003, 08:59 AM
You need to remove the motor bracket at the rear of the motor. Keep in mind it will not fit in an RSX due to the shorter wheelbase. The wire terminals at the back of the motor may need to be trimmed for the best fit. I just snipped mine with some diagonal cutters. As long as you leave a little bit sticking through that board, you will be OK. Then, you only need to solder on the XMods motor connector, as the little board already has a nice set of surface-mount noise-suppression caps on it.
backtrack9
12-26-2003, 10:21 AM
Okay, I got a Micro RS4 stock 180 motor and opened it up to make a few little modifications. I first unwound the armature completely. Next I repositioned the comm by turning it 90° CW (if you are looking at the armature from the comm side, not the power shaft side). This put the comm in the same orientation relative to the brushes as the 130 motors. I then moved the comm again 10° CCW to add advancement to the motor (this would mean that I moved the comm a total of 80° CW). I then began winding the armature with 26 ga. wire. I wound the armature in the same way in which the 130 motors are wound. Just mark the comm posts that go to each pole (in the 130 style winding, not the 180 style) before reorienting the comm to keep track of which two posts go to which pole. After rotating the comm 80° I put 25 turns of 26 ga. wire on each pole. After assembly I tested the no-load current (0.51A). Not too bad coming from a motor that sounds like it has as high of rpms as the Plasma Dash. This thing screams - literally. The torque is not even an issue, more than enough to get moving at a fast rate. After installing it in my Supra with the 9t pinon I was suprised to find that when holding the car in mid-air at full throttle it actually hurt my ears. I put her down to go for a test run. Not even funny! It takes about 1-1/2 to 2 feet to get up to full speed and then it is like a rocket. After about 12 minutes of track time in my garage I noticed only two things that were small drawbacks. The first is that the car is now heavier meaning that even with AWD you have to be careful going around corners too fast (fishtailing). The second is that the car's lower heatsink gets only slightly warm to the touch (never did before, even when using some hot motors). I have not done a FET upgrade and have run all of these motors (not without checking the current draw first of course) on the stock ESC. I think that I will rewind this motor with about 35-40 turns of 28 ga. wire to help the stock electrics last and just to be safe. At any rate, I think the 80° offset orientation of the comm has some advantages. I will try it again and then post some results.
neurokinetik
12-26-2003, 01:45 PM
Good findings. If you are getting Plasma Dash RPMs out of the motor, I'll have to try your winding method.
It is true that the 180 motor will alter your weight distibution a bit, pushing the weight bias towards the front. That tends to make the car tail-happy, even with AWD. Moving the batteries back helps. The other thing contributing to the tail-happy nature of the car is the ability to generate wheelspin much easier.
Last night, I wound one with 35 turns of 28Ga. It sounds decently fast, definitely better than the stock Team Orion. Pulls more current (0.40A vs. 0.28A) than the GPM modified motor, which is also supposed to be a 35T motor. Sounds torquey, but I have not installed it in the car yet. (I really need more 11 tooth pinions)
xxspeednplayaxx
12-29-2003, 10:20 AM
i purchased a 180 motor for 5.95$ its the hoppin hydros big bad johnson motor.. i didnt have a pinion puller so i bought a 12T pinion for a micro rs4.. however the motor axel is too thing for the pinion and lock screw, so i fabricated a bushing for a tight, even fit... im not sure if this motor is safe fr xmods because i havent out it in yet (still enjoying my mod) once i try it ill tell you how it is
00black_civic
01-10-2004, 09:25 PM
Is this the team orion motor yall have been talkin about if not would this one fit in my Civic? Thanks for the help.
neurokinetik
01-10-2004, 09:39 PM
That's the one...
00black_civic
01-10-2004, 09:46 PM
Dont hate me for this but i went and looked at the mini-z motors and was wondering if i could fit one of those in my car. One more question should i get a mini-z motor (if it fits), Team Orion or one of these.
00black_civic
01-10-2004, 09:47 PM
Sorry cant post more than one pic
00black_civic
01-10-2004, 09:48 PM
or this one sorry 1 more
00black_civic
01-10-2004, 09:48 PM
Last one
GaryMan
01-11-2004, 12:03 AM
yeah the team orion motors work good and i dont know about the first 3 but the last one is the one i have and it takes off like a rocket as far as top speed its IMO i say a hand past the top speed of a stage 2 but its a well worth upgrade no modificattion outside reversing the polarity (neg to pos, pos to neg)
00black_civic
01-11-2004, 01:59 PM
Can you tell me RPMs on any of those?
neurokinetik
01-12-2004, 12:45 PM
Originally posted by 00black_civic
Dont hate me for this but i went and looked at the mini-z motors and was wondering if i could fit one of those in my car. One more question should i get a mini-z motor (if it fits), Team Orion or one of these.
Where did you find all these? I may be looking to try them and see how they work. Those and the Great Planes ones that Tower sells.
I will admit that none of the 180 motors I have tried spins very fast, stock. Even the GPM Modified that is supposed to do 30k on six cells only does about 17k on four cells.
TypeZer0
01-12-2004, 03:51 PM
hey neuro, did any of the 180 motors you tested have ball bearings in the can and endbell as opposed to brass bushings?
neurokinetik
01-14-2004, 12:32 PM
No, they all have the bushings. I'm not sure if any of the existing ball bearings for the 130 can be made to fit yet, either. I need to try it, actually.
hoopsta1423
01-16-2004, 12:52 AM
ok so i just took a 180 motor out of a remington shaver, i do not need to put the cap and capicitator(sp?) and the other brown thingy from the x mods motors onto the 180 motor right?? just need to wire it in?
TypeZer0
01-16-2004, 07:07 AM
if you want, go right ahead, but those things suppress noise and back emf so you'll be risking radio interference plus ESC damage
00black_civic
01-18-2004, 09:49 PM
Would this Mini-Z motor be any good in my car
00black_civic
01-18-2004, 09:50 PM
Or this one
00black_civic
01-18-2004, 09:53 PM
Last one. Oh yeah would i need to upgrade FET's to put any of these in. Thanks for the help.
neurokinetik
01-20-2004, 02:03 PM
Other than the S03, there have been no reports on those last three motors you have shown. The S03 does require a FET mod.
They are all 130 type motors, though, which means they really don't belong in this thread.
00black_civic
01-21-2004, 06:53 PM
All right sorry for posting 130 motors but i dont know anything about motors and stuff like that on my XMOD. Yeah you could say im a noob to this but hey im brave enough to ask for help instead of fring my car because I "think" I know what im doing.
My Bad Sorry For The Inconvience.
Could you tell me how to tell the difference on these so I dont post the wrong size motors again?
neurokinetik
01-22-2004, 07:11 PM
Originally posted by 00black_civic
All right sorry for posting 130 motors but i dont know anything about motors and stuff like that on my XMOD. Yeah you could say im a noob to this but hey im brave enough to ask for help instead of fring my car because I "think" I know what im doing.
My Bad Sorry For The Inconvience.
Could you tell me how to tell the difference on these so I dont post the wrong size motors again?
Don't worry about it, I'm just trying to keep the thread on-topic so it deosn't get closed. 180 motors are the same height and width, but are about 50% longer than a 130 motor. Of the first five you posted, all are 180's except that M&Y motor.
TurboSube
01-23-2004, 01:52 PM
Ok.. I have read through the forum, and a few other xmod forums.. Neuro seems to be one of the top motor guys. So, my question is.. Which 180 motor is the fastest/most torque combo without modifications.
What I would like to do is have a decent acceleration/top speed combo on hand for one car that has no fet upgrades or esc upgrades.. I want something that will be better than the RS motors(better than the SB motor too)
After I get all that figured out, then I will experiment with winding and other wiring/electronics upgrades on another car.. I just want one thats fast/solid/reliable so I don't go into withdrawals when my experimental car is in pieces
Thanks
S14 Racer
02-03-2004, 04:29 PM
Nice thread... I just got an x-mod friday and on saturday morning I was looking for a bigger motor. I grabbed the orion micro rs4 motor from a store even before the RS s2 set. I then grabbed a stage 2 set after that just in case this motor wouldnt fit and plus I wanted a good pinion from one of the 4.
I got home then found this thread / forum. haha nice guess on my behalf. I didnt even throw any motors in before I timed all the stage 2's and ripped the orion motor apart and rewound it to 45 turns. I was my first one so I dmaged the brushes and it would have a hesitant start and pull 1.3 amps when seized so I didnt try it....
I got two more yesterday and another xmod (bad steering and some other issues) and slammed a stock orion motor with a 12 tooth xmod pinon pressed on (so I cant tinker with it) into it.
Ill just say I wasnt that thrilled before with my xmod but with a smooth steering responce, viscous LSD (had a solid before I figured out to make it viscous), and the orion motor Im very pleased.
I got a race on sat with some friends so ill give my friend this stock motor and will be rewinding another to 45 turns with another cell or two upgrade (researching fets now) for the big race between my friend and I vs two others. Should be a cake walk.
Nice forum and nice thread.. Oh Mine also fits perfectly after I relocated the caps (one had caps and the other had surface mount caps and a pcb... ? )...
eLeMeNt_sK8er04
02-05-2004, 11:50 PM
i got to hand it to u man....u really scored that one man...i tried experimenting withe different otors once......and i seared my hand lol :D
KennyD
02-09-2004, 08:50 PM
The Team orion elite stock motor is a 180, right? I wanna buy it but I have a few questions first. All I have is the s1 stock motor and if I buy the team orion motor, I'll need a new pinion for it right? I don't have a pinion puller but is the stock xmod pinion easy to get off so then I can just put it on the orion motor? I sure hope so... I don't have the s2 motors from RS yet and I don't really want to buy them if I don't have to. I wanna buy this orion motor. If I have to I suppose I'll just buy the s2 upgrade and that'll be that but if I can I want this orion motor. Thanks in advance.
neurokinetik
02-10-2004, 05:43 PM
1. You need a pinion puller.
2. Stage 1 motor pack is the cheapest way to obtain pinions.
KennyD
02-10-2004, 06:10 PM
Ok, I think I'll go ahead and buy the s2 set from RS tomorrow after school. My current xmod is being a pain in the ass. I think the differential is really messed up in it because when I had the body off and floored the xmod the left tire would just spin and spin and the right tire would just sit still. I even applied pressure to the car to see if it would catch but it didn't. It's also got some stripped out screws above the rear end assembly now. I'm just gonna return it, 1 wheel drive isn't very fun to drive because it can't take turns very easily and is hella hard to control. After I return my xmod and get another, I'll buy the s2 kit and then go over to walmart and get a $4 spin brush and fiddle with that. If I'm not happy with my results then I'll break down and buy a reliable pinion puller (one that wont break on the first pinion) and an orion motor. Until then, later!
TypeZer0
02-11-2004, 08:07 AM
neuro, i was wondering, did you try winding your 180 motor in the same fashion as a 130 motor? any measurable difference?
neurokinetik
02-11-2004, 11:38 AM
Originally posted by TypeZer0
neuro, i was wondering, did you try winding your 180 motor in the same fashion as a 130 motor? any measurable difference?
I tried it with a 260, which is actually setup the same as a 180, timing-wise, and it was terrible.
HPIracer
02-12-2004, 05:40 PM
I re did my 6 cell 180 civic. Heres a pic.
TypeZer0
02-12-2004, 09:55 PM
does anyone get heavy interference from their 180 motor? i got a 180 motor from a colgate motion toothbrush to fool around with before i order the team orion elite motor from towerhobbies. i have a 10micro farad non-polarized electrolyte between the terminals and each terminal has a ceramic disk (dunno value, it was a mixed bag from radioshack and i dont' have a meter that could measure it) grounding to the can like the RS motors. i get no problems wutsoever as soon as i switch back to any of my RS motors. the range is fine within 4 to 5 feet of me but any farther and it stutters or simply loses connection altogether
neurokinetik
02-13-2004, 12:26 PM
I've never had a problem. The setup that comes stock on the Team Orion works well (as I noticed on the oscilloscope) Personally, I would just transfer over a set of caps along with the connector from one of the stock RS motors, and try that.
00black_civic
02-14-2004, 01:33 PM
Okay I have got it narrowed down to these 3
Dynamite Mini Mod Motor
Team Orion Elite stock motor for Micro RS4.
180 SH Mini Motor
Im Looking for torque but i also want to go faster than the S2 Top Speed motor. You tell me which would be better and ill order it. Thanks in advance.
TypeZer0
02-14-2004, 07:43 PM
neuro, just curious, even though the team orion motor has caps already on it, do you still use the caps that came from teh RS motors?
neurokinetik
02-14-2004, 07:46 PM
Originally posted by TypeZer0
neuro, just curious, even though the team orion motor has caps already on it, do you still use the caps that came from teh RS motors?
Nope. I use the ones that come stock on the TO motor. They work fine for me.
TypeZer0
02-14-2004, 08:11 PM
Originally posted by neurokinetik
Nope. I use the ones that come stock on the TO motor. They work fine for me.
ok, just wondering. guess i'll give up on this motor if transplanting the RS caps form teh S2 motors don't work and get the TO motor. btw, thanks for the fast response lol
Have any of your tried the Megatech ball bearing motors??
00black_civic
02-22-2004, 07:31 PM
Re:Okay I have got it narrowed down to these 3
Dynamite Mini Mod Motor
Team Orion Elite stock motor for Micro RS4.
180 SH Mini Motor
Im Looking for torque but i also want to go faster than the S2 Top Speed motor. You tell me which would be better and ill order it. Thanks in advance.
Still no answer but i just did a 6-cell today if that makes any difference. Thanks
TypeZer0
02-22-2004, 08:35 PM
for me, the team orion motor had way more torque than the 180sh motor from the colgate motion
00black_civic
02-22-2004, 08:44 PM
OK thanks has any one tried the Dynamite Mini Mod Motor, dont know if I wanna try it or not I think ill just buy the Team Orion one unless someone can tell me the Dynamite is better and have actually tried both.
How is the top speed on the team orion?
TypeZer0
02-22-2004, 09:35 PM
i dunno where to even get the dynamite one, haven't seen one in internet stores yet. neuro said the team orion motor was slow but i consider it quite fast, it's faster than a stage 2 with the same gear ratio and faster than my stage 2 with some turns taken out (it's 35 turns right now and it's too cold to test it outside so i only got 15 to 20 feet to get it up to speed and it's still not as fast at the team orion) i'd like to take it apart and take some turns out but i'm too lazy to desolder the terminals so i can remove that circuitboard on teh back and get to the endbell. btw, that circuitboard merely holds three surface mount caps, nothing special.
I'm running the Team Orion motor at 7.5v on stock fets. Quite frankly, it's more car than I can handle. For dragracing, no problem, but taking corners is now a challenge.
TypeZer0
02-23-2004, 03:37 PM
Originally posted by Rez
I'm running the Team Orion motor at 7.5v on stock fets. Quite frankly, it's more car than I can handle. For dragracing, no problem, but taking corners is now a challenge.
same here, i flip way too much on carpet
00black_civic
02-23-2004, 06:15 PM
Neuro says a top speed stage 2 has better top speed but less torque than Team Orion. Is this true? Should I use blue gear and matching pinion? How much modding is needed for this to fit in a 6-cell Civic?
Sorry for all the questions and numerous posts. Im kinda new and dont want to screw anything up. Thanks.
Originally posted by 00black_civic
Neuro says a top speed stage 2 has better top speed but less torque than Team Orion. Is this true? Should I use blue gear and matching pinion? How much modding is needed for this to fit in a 6-cell Civic?
Sorry for all the questions and numerous posts. Im kinda new and dont want to screw anything up. Thanks.
That's true, but the Team Orion motor has better acceleration with the tallest gear than the lowest gear on a S1 motor. It reaches high speed very quickly. I used the blue gear and pinion.
To fit in a civic, you shouldn't have to mod anything short of the connector on the motor, unless it's going to get in the way of one of your cells. I don't know where you put your cells though.
00black_civic
02-23-2004, 06:24 PM
Thanks for such a quick response would i have to worry about my friend catching up I will be Drag racing 40-50ft.
Oh yeah and my cells are mounted in the inside of the roof.
TypeZer0
02-23-2004, 06:29 PM
Originally posted by 00black_civic
Thanks for such a quick response would i have to worry about my friend catching up I will be Drag racing 40-50ft.
Oh yeah and my cells are mounted in the inside of the roof.
well, you're just gonna have to find out who's gonna win the drag race. if he does catch up, then go back and do some more modding then race him again.
redninja
04-20-2004, 09:16 PM
OMG...After running my Xmod in the garage for about 7mins I opened it up and just about burned my finger on the motor. So I decided to check the temp, it WAS 161 DEGREES FARENHEIT. By the time i got my camera out it was down to 144. See pic. Is this a bad thing?
aperson
04-22-2004, 09:49 PM
i dont think the motor is supposed to get that hot. are you using the heatsink?
ZipZapin
04-28-2004, 12:28 PM
Does it evan still run? I know thast low temperature for a nitro, but a 180 E? get a heatsink and a hood scoop, you need it!
redninja
04-29-2004, 01:34 AM
Yup it still runs fine. Brought it down to the local track. Everyone was just amazed at the acceleration. Way too much torque even with AWD and the tallest gears. The speed tops out in about 1 second at full throttle.
Too bad the RS electronics have no range. The little car could barely make it around the track. It glitched about 90% of the time.
Also ran my Mini-t with 8cells and Baja motor. Now that motor was running at a scorhin 250 degrees.
aperson
04-29-2004, 09:28 AM
take my advice, dont get them too hot. use as many heat sinks as possible. if they are getting that hot youre losing performance, and motor life.
jon.jon
05-12-2004, 06:56 PM
Heres my gauranteed heat problem solution on the left is 130 case I use the dremel to put vents in it, long on this side and short on the other side, with all the air moving in and out the motor doesnt really have any time to get that hot. It runs so cool you dont need a heat sink.
The middle and right are spin brush pro motors. A while back I bought a few of these because I thought it was better to have 3 motors, 1 toothbrush with 3 replacement heads, and 6 extra AA batteries to have laying around all for the same price of a regular 180 motor that I would probably have to still modify, but to find out after the motor died the brushes and the spinbrushes are paper thin, they disenegrated. Now I finally got my fets in (thanks neuro excellent mod) so I need a souped up 180 motor since the SBP brushes are not all that good I trimmed and added a xmod endcap works great so far, next will be bearings in the 180!! I dont even know its probably already been done all I can say Im making the same move.
color0
06-30-2004, 12:25 AM
(first reply :D )
so, about 180 motors in general, if you made one hot enough to fry the FETs, wouldn't it be one f***ing fast motor, while you still had plenty of torque?
adams86lxi
08-05-2004, 09:34 PM
alright i dont know crap about these things! just what i have been reading i get mine in a couple of days but i know im going to want a new motor. So i can put this motor in one no prob right? http://graphics.hobbypeople.net/gallery/854841.jpg What the hell are caps? Also to get the most out of this motor can i just run the 6 cell battery conversion and stock everything else? Also what kind of top speed are we looking at with this motor? I know it will have torque!
and would this one be a good choice? Would i be able to use the stock wiring connector it has on it? http://graphics.hobbypeople.net/gallery/255061.jpg it says its the replacement motor with plug from HPI for the RS4. How fast would this be?
which one of these motors is the better one? They seem identical to me accept one is made by hpi and the other is made by orion? Which one would be the better choice to get?
adams86lxi
08-05-2004, 09:43 PM
IGNORE THIS POST! SORRY!
newbitowner
08-09-2004, 09:54 PM
I just got a 180 motor from atomicsmods.com and they don't get hot AT ALL, but I only run 4 I-C3's. This thing has more than enough power for me.
I want to try and run a team orion stock elite motor, but I need a pinion puller. Anyone know how much these cost?
kquistorff
08-10-2004, 01:50 AM
i think all pullers for slot cars work, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5912943696&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW ebay always has them cheap
lancer11
08-21-2004, 11:18 AM
Originally posted by sherifx
I'd love to use I micro rs4 motor such as this: http://graphics.hobbypeople.net/gallery/255065.jpg
but there is no way to tie the rear down.
sherif
where u find that i need a site with huge motors like that can some people help me
Sky_Liner
08-22-2004, 11:53 AM
Lancer- you can get them at towerhobbies
Hi guys,
I havent been into xmods long and have been hanging out at xmodworld since I have,just found this site. Im glad to see that people over here are trying to get power with the 180s. I have been messing with them myself a little but havent got the results I want yet.
I built a 180 from a colgate tooth brush,trimed the can down so I could fit 130 endcap with carbon brushes and rewound it to 53 raps. It had a little better top end but the torque was not that great . From what im reading here I should go lower with the raps on a 180,didn't know this when I did it.
I think the reason the 180s are not performing is because of the stock magnets. When we take the raps down on these 180s we are killing the torque, we need some stronger mags to bring torque back up substantualy over a 130 and low raps so it will have rps like a 130. Thats what Ive been trying to find ,neo mags for a 180 or even isotropic ferret mags for 180. My thinking is that the colgate 180 has standard ferret mags in it and thet fact that they are longer along with longer armature is what makes it more powerful than 130. when we take raps down we bring power(torque) down closer to a 130 thats why we need mags to balance it back out.
Does anyone here know where to get neodymium mags for 180? Thought about useing four 130 neo mags,two on each side of can with one on each side trimed down so that together they would equal length of 180 mag. Dont know if this would work ,what do some of you think?
On another note, I have a 170 from a panasonic shaver(ES4001) in my car for now. Its a little smaller than a 130 or 180 but the same length as 180. iT Blows the colgate 180 away,it has way more torque but seems to have good rpm. Mine has 8 tooth pinion on it and its still faster than the 180 with 9 tooth pinion plus the170 accelerates way better. sorry post was so long
color0
09-20-2004, 12:53 AM
you're using carbon brushes, 130 style winding, 130 style endbell, and still getting nothing? have you checked that the motor spins freely by itself?
Driftposer
10-08-2004, 10:40 AM
Hey guys, great thread lets keep it alive. Just ordred team orion 180 and TLC twin tubo to install on my li-ion skyline. Plan on using 11 tooth pinion for drifting with pvc on tennis court. I am not experienced with "timing motors" or rewinding so this motor will run stock. I am currently running stage 2 drift motor and have plenty of torque and look forward to increased speeds. Will update when install is complete.
xxxmod
10-09-2004, 06:40 PM
did any body try to put a air plane brushless motor it just wont have rev. in it you'll have to use another controler to
mod_o_matic
10-31-2004, 05:17 PM
Can't run a brushless systum unless you change all the electronics out...such as the reciver, sevo possibly and then i belive 180 sized burshless motar draws 10 amps or more?!
dIsEaSe
11-23-2004, 12:38 AM
How can you tell how many amps a motor draws, to see if it will be safe for the stock FETS?
I have 2 motors that I was thinking about trying in my Xmod.
Also, where can I get a pinion puller, or something similar?
Shelby_HEMI
11-24-2004, 09:24 AM
Originally posted by sherifx
I'd love to use I micro rs4 motor such as this: http://graphics.hobbypeople.net/gallery/255065.jpg
but there is no way to tie the rear down.
sherif
Use hose clamps or zip ties to attach it to the chassis.
1SloSupra
11-24-2004, 04:07 PM
Any thoughts on this setup?
http://www.xmodworld.com/modules.php?name=Store&func=ShowProduct&product=10
color0
12-14-2004, 02:50 AM
fast, but not really in the hot 130 league.
and technically speaking it's not really worth $30...
mastermod
12-22-2004, 03:07 PM
I Recently ordered the jsp racing mini motor for a micro RS4.. EBAY rocks :cool: i got it for $10!!!!! This thing flies all thanks to u guys for the information and jsp for the wicked motor!!! THNX !!
broke ess supra
01-27-2005, 08:08 PM
i have a ff-180sh/ph also and also filed down the ends but i rewound it with 26ga wire 30 times. it has nice rpms and torque now and i only have a 2x2 stack of stock fets(i'm too cheap to buy them) my fets don't even get hot
also if you check this forum you'll find this setup only draws .5 amps=
http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16023
do you think it would draw way more current if i took off like 5 winds
i only mentiones this because i know the plasma dash(130) has like 27 winds of 26ga
color0
02-13-2005, 05:50 PM
it will draw more amps, but not nearly as much as the plasma... the 180 can takes more wire per turn, so you'll probaby draw less than 1A with 27 turns.
moddog
02-16-2005, 02:07 PM
Another nod here for TO Elite Micro stock. I have an 11t pinion and I raced a car with 2Wd and a RS S2 9T motor and I gave him a car head start and I just smoked him. Race was about 20 ft. Even on 50 ft runs, I kill him.
skiyliner69
02-25-2005, 09:55 PM
Originally posted by 00black_civic
Last one
so if i put this one in my stalk skyline it wold work fine?
skiyliner69
02-25-2005, 09:56 PM
im talking about the last pic of his motors on page two i think:D
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