ill be the first

[blacksabbath070]

well i got a zip zap and i have to syait pretty good its not as fast i would like it but hey i like the whole idea of the mustangs and cruisers and the fast and the furious kit is great (thats wath i bought) i didnt like the movie but i like the detail on the car zip zaps are the best clone ive found so far

[Def]

i got the zipzaps too. so far so good but like you said, it's not as powerful.

[Chris]

its not as powerful probably because it is larger and heavier than the bits

[kwikbb]

I agree about the lack of power and I think that the intrest of the "NOS" motor, which is only 23,000+ rpm, will quickly be outlived. And forget about putting a bit motor in, there's just not enough tourqe to push the heavier zz. I tried my 2.6 in there and it ran slower than the stock 1.6 of the zz :confused:

Hopefully someone will disect the zz motor and make some kick@ss aftermarket 4.0's or 5.0's :D

[Chris]

ya. that would be cool. with a 5.0 motor, those zip zaps would kick a$$!:p anyway, I wonder why the bit motor didn't work in it. are the zip zap motors any bigger in size than bit char motors? and would anyone suggest buying a zip zap cuz I was in radio shack today and was contemplatin buying one, but I decided to wait and see what other people think of them. so, IS IT WORTH THE $20??:confused:

[SPEED]

If you have a bit char-g right now you should just buy the tune up set for the ZZ's. Most of the parts on the ZZ tune up set are compatible with the Bits. I have a question.......has anyone put the "NOS" motor in the bit char-g yet???

[Chris]

so what is and what isn't compatible with the bit in the ZZ tune up kit? do the bodies fit on? do the motors fit in the bit? do the tires fit on a bit? stabilizer bars? axles?:confused:

[kwikbb]

Originally posted by Chris
so what is and what isn't compatible with the bit in the ZZ tune up kit? do the bodies fit on? do the motors fit in the bit? do the tires fit on a bit? stabilizer bars? axles?:confused:

No the bodies don't fit, zz's are 1/64th scale and bits are 1/72th scale.

Motors can fit in the bit with a little finegling, but as i said before vice versa does'nt seem to work to well.

Yes the stabilizers are cross compatable.

The axels on the zz's are longer than the bit's. I tried to put the bit axels on the zz but no luck too short it kept locking up, so I took the rims off the zz axel and replaced them some spare bit rims. For the front I did the same, so i've got bit rims all around. (personally I think it looks better)

[Chris]

hmmm. I guess I should just get a zip zap then since only a few things are compatible in the tuner kit. why buy it if you are only going to use 3 or 4 parts from it. oh yeah, and I know I am going to sound like a cpmplete newbie, but wat is the point of having hard,soft, and medium stabilizer bars. what difference would it make performance-wise:confused: (I'm just Chock-full-O questions tonight!!)

[Def]

I got around to replacing the wire antennae and it improved the reception a couple of feet. I also took apart the remote control but it doesn't appear to have the exact same layout as the others. If anyone has any other modification to improve antennae reception/performance, please let us all know.

BTW, for those who already bought the zz with the fast and furious kit, what combinations do you find to be the best? I'm using the NOS motor w/ the green gear and 3rd stabilizer. Everything appears okay and it's faster than the stock but of course the car seems to drift at high speed.

[kwikbb]

Originally posted by Chris
what is the point of having hard,soft, and medium stabilizer bars. what difference would it make performance-wise:confused: (I'm just Chock-full-O questions tonight!!)

Welp my experience has been finding the right combination based around what motor you're using.

For example my bB has:
2.6 motor
soft stabalizer (better in the corners, less tension on the body)
medium tires in the front
soft in the rear
lowered the body on the chassis in the front

My Supra is running:
2.2 motor
custom modified stock stabilizer (I shaved it down a bit so the car would sit lower but has a little more tension, I've found that the Supra flips over more easily) again a better combo for cornering.
Soft tires in the front and medium in the rear

So far this is the best combo I've found for my driving style. Full throttle :D

[Nightwing]

The basic concept of half charger/ half transmitter is the same but exactly how it does it is different. Some thing like how it modulates and connect the buffer-final to the antenna are different. The output filter is different. Other items like generation of the tones values could be different due to changes in a resistor value on the TX2 IC.

I would strongly recommend dont monkey with the output! Dont start clipping parts since all are needed. The designed was set up to meet FCC reg on output power level and spur's. Esp the way it modulates the RF with the signals from the TX2 IC. Its different than a Bit. The odds are you would decrease the range or muck up how it modulates the signal so in effect your transmitter is dead if you start clipping parts.

[jhandel]

Originally posted by Def
BTW, for those who already bought the zz with the fast and furious kit, what combinations do you find to be the best? I'm using the NOS motor w/ the green gear and 3rd stabilizer. Everything appears okay and it's faster than the stock but of course the car seems to drift at high speed.

It's great, when you close the car, it's just snug enough to keep the upper contact in place. :D

http://johnhandelphotography.com/zipzaps/ready.jpg

[prooney]

jhandel,

How long do the batteries last before you have to swap them?

[jhandel]

Originally posted by prooney
jhandel,

How long do the batteries last before you have to swap them?

With the nimh fully charged, and the addition of the 1.5, I get about 10-15 minutes. I could go longer, but you wouldn't want to because the 1.2 would be empty, and I would be running straight off the 1.5v.

The great thing is, after each run I just pop the hood, to release the contacts and stick it on the charger and go again. On a new battery, I can do this 10-15 times. And even then, when you think the battery might be dead, put it away over night, test it with voltmeter the next day, and you'll see it's still pushing 1.5-1.4v...

You never want to charge the car with the 76 PX in there. You'll kill it for sure. But my design doesn't require me to put something back into the loop, and reseal the car before charging. I just pop the hood, it takes the 76 PX out of the loop, and I charge the car. If you'd like I can post a pic of the actualy mod (schematic). I'm not running batteries parralell (sp).

jh

[lowerdfool]

yes please post a schematic for us i'd like to see how that's done.

[Nightwing]

If you dont mind. If you have a schematic of the "boot" battery add on, they may be a way to use a diode to block the charge voltage but let it work when not charging.

Have done strange switches with diodes over the year.

[jhandel]

Originally posted by Nightwing
If you dont mind. If you have a schematic of the "boot" battery add on, they may be a way to use a diode to block the charge voltage but let it work when not charging.

Have done strange switches with diodes over the year.

Overview of schematic:

http://johnhandelphotography.com/zipzaps/schematic.jpg

I'm attaching a zip file to this post, the filename is jhandel_mod.zip it contains 11 images (jpg format). If you bring them into a good photo program (ie photoshop), and print them, they will print nicely to 8.5 by 11 paper.

In the event that something happens to the file on this site, here is my ZZ AREA, you can download the zip from there if you wish.

If you have any question regarding this mod, just post them to this thread.

MY ZZ AREA (http://johnhandelphotography.com/zipzaps/)

l8x,

jh

[Nightwing]

Tnks. Nice diagram. Let me do some thinking on adding a diode.

[jhandel]

Originally posted by Nightwing
Tnks. Nice diagram. Let me do some thinking on adding a diode.

That would be kewl. Wouldn't have to open the hood to do a charge. Easy enough to test out though, just run a voltmeter across those 2 NEW contacts while the car is charging to see what kind of voltage is being cycled through there...?

jh