my 1/32 version of Tamiya Bruiser.. [Archive]

r.c.dealer

06-14-2003, 10:39 PM

By the way that chassis is to cool for school!!!

What kind of joints are you using up front to allow the front wheels to turn, as I noticed it is 4wd. Also what kind of gears are you using for the axles and the transmission? What about the steering blocks up front. I might have to make my own :D

killer

06-15-2003, 04:29 AM

Originally posted by r.c.dealer
By the way that chassis is to cool for school!!!

What kind of joints are you using up front to allow the front wheels to turn, as I noticed it is 4wd. Also what kind of gears are you using for the axles and the transmission? What about the steering blocks up front. I might have to make my own :D

:ö:

thanks r.c.dealer, the u-joints used on the front wheels to turn are handmade by me, out of a 4mm steel shaft (check out some of the pics of the u-joints i made at my gallery on TTTT thread i also have made some u-joint out of 3mm steel shaft to make my 6x6 1/87 truck all-wheel-drive! i got some video there too to prove it's all-wheel-driven capabilities and the strength of those steel u-joints) the gears set used for the tranny came from Tamiya Racing Mini-4WD with 5:1 gear ratio, and the gears at the axles are combination of a worm and gearset, so i expect this truck much faster than the other trucks i made, now that steering block, i curve that thing out of a thick brass tube.

yes, this truck is going to be like it's bigger version, i've already made a waterproof electronic box, so submerging the truck on a headlight high water will be possible :cool:

-æ

-æ

killer

06-17-2003, 09:15 PM

hope you like it!

killer

06-17-2003, 09:21 PM

sideview..

killer

06-17-2003, 09:24 PM

size..

killer

06-17-2003, 09:34 PM

:ö: modified Tamiya Monster Tires for Rock Crawling..

Ovgron

06-20-2003, 11:32 PM

im going to make a micro mosnter truck (made from a bit char-g) and i was wondering if you could post a pic of it without the body so i get a idea for suspension.

killer

06-21-2003, 10:17 AM

Originally posted by Ovgron
im going to make a micro mosnter truck (made from a bit char-g) and i was wondering if you could post a pic of it without the body so i get a idea for suspension.

:ö: yes i have a pic of that truck without the body... it's on my gallery at the TTTT thread here.... hope to see some pics of your project truck too ;).

-æ

sawhit4

11-28-2003, 07:19 PM

hey killer could you please do a thread on how to make those awesome u joints? they are SWEET. i want to try to make a truck like yours if your cool with me using some of your ideas. thanks alot

lowam

12-15-2003, 09:30 PM

i didnt see any pics in the tttt forum. is there any way you can post some more of the mini bruiser chassis. im trying to figure out how to build some driveshafts for myself thanks

killer

12-15-2003, 10:23 PM

it's there!.. but to save your time from looking, here it is ;).. this one has a 130 type motor with a 5:1 gear ratio from a Tamiya Mini-4WD chassis.

killer

12-15-2003, 10:28 PM

and here's the one i use, powered by a Modified to accept micro servo Mini-Z racer electronic board,4cell Ni-Mh battery and a smaller motor, i lower the gear ratio to 150:1 so i can use a smaller motor, but the 5:1 of Tamiya Mini-4WD is too high even if i use a Modified High Torque 130 motor.

lowam

12-16-2003, 02:20 PM

how do you solder brass like that . its really cool . i'd like to learn how to do that.

killer

12-19-2003, 03:22 AM

:ö: to solder brass.... well, this is how i do it :)

first make sure that the brass you are going to solder is clean, no lamination or cover... and then use a fine grit sandpaper only on the parts to be soldered, apply a liberal amount of flux on both parts then hold them firmly together, using a third hand is the best way to this (this is a tool with two alligator clips and an optional lens), use a 60watts or higher soldering iron... melt just enough soldering lead on the tip of the iron, then touch the parts of the brass (with flux) to be soldered (make sure that the iron is very hot) you will see that the soldering lead will flow cleanly on the parts to be joinned .

Bkast

01-02-2004, 08:43 PM

How much do you think it would run me to build something like that.... I dont know if I could ...wonder if you could hook me up with some u joints and other parts.

Brett

buffalo beans

02-20-2006, 04:13 PM

hey killer those are awsome i would like to make my self one but I'll need some tips and pointers if it is ok with u

and those u joint those are cool how did you make those Im going to make one Im just going to need some help doing it

Snake Mod

02-21-2006, 05:12 PM

just a suggestion these posts are dating in 2002. That's 4 years he's likly not to reply:D

killer

03-22-2006, 04:44 AM

am back!!!!.. whew!,actually those u-joints are handcrafted from tamiya 3mm (for 1/87 truck truck) and 4mm (for my 1/32 and 1/24 monster truck) actually it's the same as the u-joint on 1/10 scale rc cars!

alpha_003

07-29-2006, 02:51 PM

i know this is an old thread but i just found it and i have to say:
WOWZERZ!!!! man that little truck is awesome, i have been wanting to make something like that for quite some time now, the only thing that is stopping is not having those driveshafts that ur using to send powerto the axles....that little truck is amazing!!! wish i had one like that, in fact this just reinspired me,
thanks and cudos KILLER,

Lino

Azimov

07-29-2006, 05:54 PM

I'm glad you bumped this. Excellent work all around! I love this kinda stuff.

alpha_003

07-29-2006, 07:23 PM

i found the oh so searchedfor U-joints!!!!! finally i can begin my creations!!!
here the link:
http://bearlocomotive.com/product/X0001
im just curious, is 6mm too thick for the 1/32 scale driveshaft u joints??? oh well....trial and error!!

-Lino

Azimov

07-29-2006, 11:23 PM

Interesting find. I saved the link. They have alot of cool stuff.

killer

08-01-2006, 05:45 AM

Originally posted by alpha_003
i found the oh so searchedfor U-joints!!!!! finally i can begin my creations!!!
here the link:
http://bearlocomotive.com/product/X0001
im just curious, is 6mm too thick for the 1/32 scale driveshaft u joints??? oh well....trial and error!!

-Lino

hey thanks Lino!.. that u-joint would save you hours of work!.. 6mm driveshaft is fine for 1/32 scale.. if your building a rockcrawler, that would be more than enough! ;).. show us your project.. perhaps we could make some suggestions and answer some of your questions! ;)

odi2

09-24-2006, 04:54 PM

:rolleyes:

Jazz32

09-24-2006, 06:40 PM

Originally posted by odi2
:rolleyes:

Odi2, this is your second worthless post. I have deleted the thread you started with a stupid smiley face. Post things with value otherwise your account will be banned.

x-modsrocks

10-19-2006, 10:49 AM

killer, would u build another one of those and sell it? if so how much plz email me with info if you would @ harr4340@gmail.com thank you so much

killer

10-23-2006, 11:33 PM

x-modsrock,

am sorry but my babies are not for sale.. the materials that i used are fairly cheap, normally can be found in your misc. box.. if i were to sell it at a certain price not higher than the total cost i used and the price for the shipping..am living here in Manila, Philippines... would be sky high for a very small truck.. but if you want i could assist you if you wish to build your very own truck!..;)

-killer

alpha_003

10-24-2006, 10:30 PM

i dont think anyone with such a masterpiece would ever sell it....i wouldn't at least. i dream about such nice tiny scale 4x4's every night.
glad to see you've posted again killer, i am sure most of us admire your work and would love to se some more. i am also sure most of us envy your talent and ability.
i for one, have gotten tired of such small scales, i am planning and gathering things for my 1/18 scale trail rig and my ssmt 1:24 and mini crusher crawlers. i have also been kept busy modding the front axle on my xmod truck for it to have "live" articulation.
the smallest build i will probably do is my 1/64 scale dodge ram with leafs and real axles.
its going to be a lot of work....and i dont want to use worm gears or anything from euro sites either. i want this to be a learning experience and for it to just outlast the beating i wil put on it.

-Lino

x-modsrocks

10-25-2006, 10:54 AM

Sounds like you have alot planed for your vehicles keep us posted. :cool:

killer

10-25-2006, 05:31 PM

thanks alpha_003, yes i was quite busy with my day job here, that's whyi was not able to post here during those times... right now i am still working on this project.. a 1/24 4x4 monster truck.. it has simple yet effective suspension design.. well actually.. the same suspension as what the real unimog trucks have!.. torque tubes instead of those complicated four link suspension!.. looks like you're going to be very busy with your project man, hope to see your work posted here as well! ;)

-killer

alpha_003

10-25-2006, 07:58 PM

killer, you mean torsion bars right? as in a simple stick supension?? those can generate some pretty sweet flex. anyways, i will get the nissan titan soon. gotta mod that one too.

-Lino

alpha_003

10-25-2006, 08:24 PM

sorry for double posting, but it just came to me....what did you use to make the axles of your truck killer??? i noticed you used some worm gears and crown gears but i can really tell how the axles are built....do you mind explaining???
i already have a central tranny thought up of, maybe an airtronics 4.1:1 or a 5.1:1, got to measure the space available.......
i have been wanting to build something like yours ever since i got into the smaller R/C's, but i doubt i have the skill at this point, so i will built this project much later. right now i am busy with my xmods.

-Lino

EDIT: i just remembered what gear box i had in mind; it is the tamiya 3 speed crank axle gear box, it even comes with two output shaft ready to be modified to driveshafts.....
one idea, can i get the inner gearings of a tamiya mini 4wd and modify the front axle so it has dogbones and axles??? i mean, i could still use part of the originial housing, just new ends.

killer

10-25-2006, 11:26 PM

hi alpha_003, for the axle.. i use an antena tubes because i kinda like the chorme look although off-roader have a saying that chrome won't get you home!, but for the main axle shaft.. i used the tamiya 4mm steel hex shaft.
yes i used a worm gear and crowm gears but i did change it a ring and pinion type (tamiya mini-4wd has it!) for speedier version, works great but i have to make a few adjustment the gear ratio because ring and gear combo has higher ratio compared to worm and crown gear!.. i attached a picture of a unimog suspension system.. those two bars that connects the tranny and the axle (color red) are the torque tubes, they are simplie but flex really well!!.. i'll try to post some pics of what i have finished lately!..

killer

10-25-2006, 11:33 PM

picture from my old Unimog.. wiht tamiya ring and pinion gear.

alpha_003

10-26-2006, 11:14 PM

how did you hold together the gears??? i mean, they look like they are just out there floating....anyways, i love your work, it is so perfect, and it looks like the real deal too.
well, I'm really inspired by this thread and your help, one question about the axle though, should i use xmod gen 1 differential and crowngear? or should i use the tamiya mini 4wd??? also, about your axles...did you use bearings?? what did you use for knuckles? just two triangles with some wedges?? is that tamya 3-speed crank axle gearbox good and small enough for this build??
i'm sorry if im asking too many questions, but i guess this one and my mini dodge ram would be my first truly custom build, and i like things with smooth edges and efficiency, not something crude.....so i am going to take my time building it and refining it to perfection.....expectit to be done by this time next year.

-Lino

killer

10-28-2006, 03:40 AM

thanks for the complement Lino.. those gears are connected on the main axle by means of brass bearings soldered directly on the axle, do this carefully for proper gear meshing but you have to do it quickly or you will melt those plastic gears, i find tamiya gears easier to play with and with those protruding teeth meshing is a bit easier and you're sure it won't slip (beside the fact that all of my LHS here have tons of tamiya gears.. not to mention Auldey gears too!),
the rear axle on my trucks don't have bearings in it, because i'm using the truck more on dirt rather than on pavement, i only use bearing on the knuckles to hold the front axle that holds the front tires, actually making the front axle is the hardest part.. because there are a lot of parts involve, and you have to make sure that the center line of your u-joint are alined with your steering knuckles, if not, they will tend to push your steering knukles out.. worst you will damage your u-joint!...

i wanted to make most of my work smooth too, but everytime i get pretty close to finishing it hehehe,i cannot help myself and i do get excited to see it running on dirt!, but now on this 1/32 4x4 monster truck i'm building right now.. i'm trying to take my time and build everything slowly but surely! ;)

killer

10-28-2006, 03:53 AM

the knuckles on my 1/32 bruiser uses a thick brass tubes, because i plan to use this truck through mud, those tamiya three speed gears are too big to work on, one reason why i ditch it off the truck and it's way too fast, well that's just my own opinion, i meant the gear ratio is so high that you could burn your esc easily or if your electronics could handle it.. your battery will run out of juice pretty quick!, just look at how close the size of the tamiya mini-4wd tires are compare to the main drive gear!.. gears are like tiny levers.., build your gear combinitions so you could maximize the space you need for your electronics.

wheelhaus

11-21-2006, 06:40 PM

This is awesome information. I'd like to build a 1/35 scale (or smaller) TTTT and plan on fabricating most of my own parts. my first attempt will most likely have a simple shaft wo a RWD worm gear, front steering, and articulation on both axles. Seeing your ideas is very motivating.

The idea of using small brass tubes for U-jounts is ingenious! That really opens up the possibilities... What do you use for the spindle block, just a small brass block with a couple pressed pins?

I assume most of your fabrication is done with small hand files and tiny fingertip drills.